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Of course an electric fan uses no hp when it's off. One of my cars has an electric fan activated with a simple toggle switch. About the only times I need to turn it on is in slow city driving. At the track, I have it on in the burnout box and switch it off when I stage.
I live in the past every day. I like it there. From 1984 to 2019 , I drove exclusively 60s-70s cars. Mostly big block Mopars , most of them equipped with no-choke Holley double pumpers. For the OP, an "old tech" DP would probably work great.
I didn't have a ratchet strap so I used my friction jack. In case you don't know what that is : S & H Industries Inc 77043 | Friction Power Jack 4Pc Set-KE7
Drop the valve body . Get a long bolt, a nut and two washers. Position seal. place washer on top. Put bolt through washer and seal. Put other washer on the bottom against trans. Install nut. Tighten bolt and nut , drawing the seal into the case.
I agree , the price is rediculous. I bought a pair of those off the Cornwell truck about 20 years ago for about $25. I was reluctant to spend that but was curious as to how well they worked.
Not my intake, just a pic I found on the net. SD in stock form looks kinda ugly , what with the EGR crap and all . Chopping one up could make it more aesthetically pleasing as well as lighter.
My steel hoods retain the primary latches in addition to pins. Only the safety latches were removed . My 'glass lift off hood is pinned only and I quickly learned that if the front pins aren't located in the right spot that the front of the hood will try to peel back. Ended up adding two more...
I guess I don't understand the desire to retain a banjo fitting even though it may require making a one-off bolt . It seems like a -6 AN to 5/8 in-20 fitting , a -6 90 degree hose end, a short length of -6 hose and a straight fitting to connect the fuel filter and .....done. All readily...