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I've got a direct connection iron tach drive distributor. With the Mopar supplied curve in it, the only time it's not at full advance is starting. At 1200 rpm idle, it's all in. So, I set total at 38°. And iron open chamber heads on 2295s, with stock deck height (block not milled much) and...

What is the goal? and what was wrong with the paint before? An original hood was a textured satin black.

Probably not. But, as asked previously, why? What's wrong with the block that you think taking the fill out will solve?

And don't forget.... there's no incentive for the car companies to build a "cheaper" anything!

The reason you'll never see that truck is the EPA. If the illustration in #1 is correct, the reason THAT Toyota is coming is because of the giant fender flares, to cover the artificially wide track. Without those flares and wide wheels, that truck could never get the mandated fuel economy...

In california? You betcha! They think that cause the law gave them the rightaway, they can do what they please, and walk as slowly as they want. Over a thousand pedestrians are killed in california each year, about 15% of the nation-wide total.

Agree. It's likely not rubbing the spring. My slicks are within 3/8" to the spring, and don't rub. But my car doesn't handle for ship, so it's not likely to rub on the inner fender either.

That's what I recommended too, in #6.

Wrap a ratchet strap around the header tube you want to move, park next to a tree, and have at it.

It might be a rubber TUBE shortage, rather than rubber. Who uses tubes much anymore? (Besides racers a bicyclists)

I'm using the 4 7/8 bs cl too. Fit great on my 69 rr, needs a small spacer on my 62. (65 8 3/4 rear?)

Mine are on a 8.5 centerline. If you can find a 10" with the right backspace, a 10 would be preferred. The stock eliminator guys are running 9x30s on a ten inch rim.

My mistake, what I meant was MY car would be quicker on a 315. I doubt a 315 will fit his car.

Possibly not. But if I'm buying expensive tires to race on, I'm buying the biggest that will fit. That's why there's an 18/31x15 Hoosier QuickTime pro on my car. My car probably would be quicker on a 315 ET Street Pro.

O.P. asked about slicks, so that's what I suggested. He would probably be fine with the biggest drag radial that will fit under the car, or a bias Mickey or Hoosier ET street type. Tuning the caltracs might be necessary too

I'm currently running 10.5x28 mickeys that need replacing, with 10x28 hoosiers ready to go. If I were you.... I'd try the Mickey Pro Bracket Radials (slicks, not drag radials) 10.5x28, or 10.5x29.5, depending on room and gear. X5 compound.

I was gonna suggest the daisies, to be different. But NOT the chrome ones! Gray, like in #43. Good luck finding em, and paying Fer em.

Motor wheel Spyders?

Not a fan of red either.... and I have four.

I agree, I think he's okay to the spring, but I think he's worried about the inside lip of the tub. (His top pic).