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So the permatex seems to have been somewhat successful. Not sure how it will hold up long term, but OK for now. I reassembled everything. Knowing it might have to come back apart, I just used hot glue and a zip tie. If it works long term, then I guess that's the permanent solution. I still...

I've been unemployed for 7 months now, so I'm trying to work with what I've got, but the temptation is there.

I considered that. Worth a shot. I cleaned the affected area with denatured alcohol and put some on. I'll give it 24 hours before I test it.

Aftermarket radio made to look like original. Lightly used but in fantastic shape. $165 plus shipping or local pickup near Charlotte NC.

I figured out how to open it up. Looks like my rivet went too deep and rubbed a groove in the rubber below that was sealing (I think). I believe the groove highlighted in green and blue aren't supposed to be there This is where it sits (upside down from the previous picture. Here is the...

The post processing went fine. Here is the final repair. The trouble came after installing. When I went to cycle between AC/vent/heat/defrost the switch got tight. It freed up after a couple of cycles though, but the switch detents were between the labels. After cranking the engine I...

Got the panel out today, but managed to break a clip. I'm trying the drill and tap method this time. Seems like a much better method. I will post some more pictures once I'm done post processing and let you know how it goes.

I used the plastic version of JB weld which is a 2-part epoxy. I roughed up both sides beforehand as well. It looks like it stuck to the metal, but not the plastic. The vacuum ports are so small, plastic welding is not really an option. I risk doing too much damage. I think threading the...

So the bezel fix worked great. Unfortunately the pop rivet did not. First time I drove it I noticed the problem was back. I can see that the JB weld has detached from the plastic so the vacuum leak is back. The pop rivet barrel I used was very short. I've seen some guys thread them and...

I JB welded the boss back on. Right after I started, I realized some gussets were a good idea. So I scrambled some together before my epoxy set and threw it together. Forgive the sloppy work, but it should hold.

I knew that one of my HVAC vacuum ports was broken, but I was hoping it would work anyways. It didn't. So out it came for repair. I used a pop rivet barrel as many others. It was a tad shorter, but it worked. One of my complaints of the dash insert I have is how the HVAC control connects...

Nevermind, I tested the old one to see if it was a ground issue and now the old works just fine. Cars are fun sometimes.

What's a decent but not crazy expensive switch to use? I bought a $20 switch off eBay and surprise surprise, it's garbage. The hazard switch is all kinds of confused. It blinks left and right alternatively when you push left or right, puts the hazards on with the switch off, etc.

Are you saying the turn signal switch or is that something else I'm not familiar with?

Because both filaments work (one with lights on and the other with the blinker) makes me think it's not a ground issue.

I noticed my brake lights were out on the passenger side (both bulbs). Driving lights come on no problem. There are two plugs under the gas fill so I thought that harness might have an issue. I tried the blinkers, which use the brake filament, and they work just fine. Things that work: -...

That sucks, but at least you got it sorted out. I did have to massage my tunnel a little bit to the right of the gas pedal to get proper clearance.

I wonder if the RMS mounts have the motor sit lower. I followed the Tremec recommendations and didn't need to cut the tunnel.

I bought the Holley sensor thinking it would be plug and play with the Holley harness. That would make sense wouldn't it?

I forgot I used a Holley MAT sensor, part number 554-121. So it will be different from what you're using