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Well that isn't good news... Sorry to read about his passing. RIP Bob

Older thread that got closed if looking for feedback from buyers. https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/plug-and-play-headlight-relay-kits.186716/

Headlight relay kits that are essentially plug and play. Whatever you can do to reduce the load on the bulkhead/charging system, DO IT. LED lights draw more energy than you may think, the stock harness will thank you for using it only for switching relays on, no heavier load carrying. There is...

Sent you a PM and yes I still build them.

Where is there 12ga wiring in the headlight circuit of any A/B/E body car? B/E got 16ga at best IIRC. bean counters!

I stand by this: Whatever you can do to relieve the OEM harness of load, DO IT. A plug and play headlight relay system requires no butchery of a factory harness. Some actually hide nicely in the factory wiring tabs. Lots of ways to skin a cat. LED's are not a fix for the inadequate OEM...

Wiring really only cares about energy passing through it. You have the same approximate amp draw. Not going to save heat on the switch/bulkhead vs the other sealed headlight system. Not many drive cars so much as to toast the life span of a sealed halogen light. Lots of 30+ year old halogens...

Retros are not 25% of OE draw. They draw maybe 25% less (certain conditions), according to tested results from 72RRGTX who is independent of the manufacturer sale brochure stuff. They draw roughly the same as an OE 4 headlight system and only marginally less than a sealed beam halogen set up...

There should be a circuit breaker in the switch. If the switch is hot to the touch, I'd bet money the plastic wire connector is melted.

Thanks for the recommendations from members. Unfortunately, I won't be able to assist the OP in a solution. For the OP, if you want to go cheap, build a kit yourself. If you are really good at electrical, have the tools, sorting out how to make the wire runs, selecting the right relays (Not...

Part of the reason the bulkhead likes to burn up. Inadequate alternator output at idle. Along with bean counters and engineers not doing customers any favors cheaping out on the system.

All good... :thumbsup:

Fractured spine guy... LOL That's a new one! Appreciate the purchase and use of my kit!

I'd like to see the couple hundred feet, direction of travel, before the accident site. MY 70 6pk gtx had the throttle stick WFO. Reach down and click it off. Scary ride, but, no panic. One of the few good things my dad taught me from driving/racing. See the Famoso accident posted on FABO...

On OEM ammeter wired cars... With items that run in both engine on or engine off state, there is no perfect place to pull power. You have to make a choice and go with the pickup point that the accessory will run most of the time, usually engine running.

Check the bulkhead connector, Violet wire IIRC, for power. Also probe the violet wire exiting the dimmer switch. If it is hot there, you know the issue is downstream in the wiring, towards the headlights.

AC car, running headlights and blower motor on high = never a balanced system at idle on a muscle era mopar. Same ol stuff with a boatload of qualifiers. The system itself, in a factory car, has never caused a problem, so some say, and that is just NOT TRUE. Jump starting a dead car and having...

The stock path is a trash can as designed from the start. How you decide to fix it is up to you. Run the ammeter or not, pick your approach and do it wisely.

Putting in a relay for the ignition and feeding anything else that is keyed on is a good idea to keep load off that OEM wire and switch.

mopar cams in general were not stamped or marked with any useful info. Only way to know for sure is a dial indicator and degree wheel.