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Interesting read. Thanks for the link.

OK. Looks like I got my flow mixed up as air is drawn into the breather from the air cleaner and not the other way around so not hot air is going to the carb. I corrected my earlier comment mistake. Thanks

My stock 383 has the air cleaner connected to the push on oil filler breather cap. I was thinking that cold air to the carburetor would be best for performance so would it be better to buy a regular breather cap and disconnect that hose leading to the air cleaner?

Thanks for the responses. It is one of those why didn’t I think of that answers. Will use a T connector and check it that way.

Adding the AVS2 to my stock 383. The manual states to check the old carburetor vacuum port to see if there is full vacuum at idle or not. My old Carter did have a vacuum so I should then hook up the vacuum line to the drivers side port on the AVS since the passenger side is for port timed. So...

Thanks for the input. I’ll go with the four hole match. The new carburetor came with the open gasket so wasn’t sure if correct or not for stock intake.

I have a stock intake manifold on my 383. Installing an Edelbrock AVS2. Would an open gasket and spacer be better than the four hole type?

The restoration shop tested it on a running engine at their shop before they shipped it so I did just bolt it on. Never drove the car before I received it as it needed work. So can’t really say how it ran prior except driving it off the trailer and down the end of the street into the garage.

I am using a brand new stock type of fuel pump. I also had the stock carburetor restored so I assume those two items are working properly. I may need the carb to be dialed in better though.

I’ll check that. Thanks Don.

Stock 383 and automatic transmission in my 1969 Bee. Starts fine and drives ok for a few hundred feet then runs a bit ruff with lower power even when giving it more gas. Possible carburetor out of adjustment?

It seems like it may be the tach itself.

Stock except for Pertronix in place of the points/condenser.

Yes the blue wire is connected to positive and the other to the coil. I’ll try grounding the case to a metal ground and see.

The PO installed a new aftermarket clock/tach in my 1969 Superbee. I verified the connections to be correct but it still does not function. On the back are some nuts marked with a ‘G’ by each one. Is this for a ground? Do I need to run a wire from one of these posts to a ground connection? Thanks.

Thanks. I made a connector from the unused field tab to a bolt on the case. It is now charging fine.

Thanks. I have a new round back type made by PowerMaster. Will check the back to see.

Yes I am.

Great thanks.

From what I have read, the second field connection on a dual field alternator must be grounded in order to charge the battery correctly. Where would be the best place to run the ground wire? Can I just connect to the case of the alternator?