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When I restored my '74 Charger SE I did pretty much what you have planed except did not do headers. My Pypes exhaust kit was just like what you see so found a Magnaflow manifold pipe on E-Bay. Notice one there for your Belvedere also. You might need someone to modify that pipe so it could...
Just depends on what your radio is designed to have as the load. First questions that come to mind right away are what vehicle, OEM or after market radio, and stereo or mono.
I'm not smart enough about coils to know what I don't know but there sure seems to be plenty of conversations regarding the Ballast Resistor rating and Coil. Can't believe some knowledgeable member hasn't already suggested you look at that...
Glad you got it running!!!
Unless I'm missing something, don't think the "BODY" manual for a '71 is going to help much.
Hey, at least you are trying to help...
I looked in my '74 manual and sure enough don't see a fuse in that circuit.
Your screwdriver or bypass starter button takes the place of the yellow wire 12 volts to the starter relay coil so no need to do anything there.
Have a GREAT DAY!
Yes you are correct. Connecting the two yellow wires routes 12V to the starter relay coil. When the neutral safety switch supplies the ground path at the same time, starter should activate. Ign 1 and 2 are needed via other circuits to develop ignition.
Correct me if I'm wrong but I'd expect the fusible link to be a slow blowing device not a fast blow fuse type. There are slow-blow style glass fuses available so keep that in mind. According to the chart posted earlier and other postings, a slow-blow fuse rated just below wire size would be...
It would be interesting to see how well the hidden GM style ignition module faired out mounted directly to the bulkhead. VERY important that the module has a generous amount of heatsink compound between it and the mounting surface. You might also cut out some of the stock ECU case sides and...
You are 100% correct thinking the two wires might be RUN 1 and 2. Since the ballast in not used the two voltages feed the ignition module and E-Core coil directly.
Remember back in the late 70s all the GM HEI distributors having ignition modules burning out frequently? Final cause was...
Current pulled (not pushed) through old wiring is always something to be aware of. As long as some really power hungry drain is NOT being added that usually in not an issue. Think of the alternator as a huge source of current. It will only supply the amount required by the loading device. A...
Your stock 65 amp alternator does all you want off idle so why spend the $$$ for more unused capability. Yes some modern units put out better at idle but how often do you set idling... As you said until the a/c is used the levels are OK so maybe an idle speed boost while a/c is on is the...
I'm also confused about the servo and cycling switch terminology. Can't make heads or tails about the diagrams posted. Maybe what my Classic Auto Air system has in not what either of you are talking about. I have the firewall forward upgrade system so all the OEM inside pieces and parts are...
OP says when he activated a/c the idle drops. One would think that means the compressor only runs with a/c "ON"
You are correct in that most solenoids do not have the power to press the accelerator but I've never seen one not hold once allowed to activate when the engine comes off idle.
Yes that is about the most convenient location to pick up the power you are wanting. If you are concerned about overloading that circuit, you could use that compressor power line to trigger a relay that would then feed 12V to the solenoid.
I don't know if the fuse protecting the compressor...