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OK. I’ll be careful with it when I put the piston stop plate back on.

Is this little tab in place simply for shipping purposes? The cylinder won’t fly out if I remove that retainer will it?

The one I am replacing is not original so just bought a new one instead.

I was able to pop the rod off using a vice and a big screwdriver pulling it upward. The old MC looks to have pressed in studs. I will probably have to order these. Hopefully I can carefully hammer them into the new MC

Thanks for all the advise. I do have a vice. Man it is in hard. All my other cars in the past the rod just slid out easily. Now I hope the bolts can be pounded out from the old MC

Replacing my brake master cylinder. When I removed the old one the pushrod would not release from the pistons. I got this left to remove but it won’t budge. Is there a trick to this?

I brushed on Bill Hirsch exhaust manifold paint in a few of my cars over the years and with proper preparation, all have looked good and held up very well.

I asked the seller and he told me they are made in China so may just end up getting that one since it looks nice and works for you. Too bad we really do not manufacture a whole lot in this country anymore.

Found many on ePay but each time I asked the seller where it was manufactured I always got the same answer. China. It maybe difficult. Also not sure if the one on there is original or not. Have to look closer to check.

Looking for a stock like master cylinder replacement for my 69 Bee with manual drum brakes all around. All that I have found so far are all made in China. Does anyone know of any manufactured in the USA?

Interesting read. Thanks for the link.

OK. Looks like I got my flow mixed up as air is drawn into the breather from the air cleaner and not the other way around so not hot air is going to the carb. I corrected my earlier comment mistake. Thanks

My stock 383 has the air cleaner connected to the push on oil filler breather cap. I was thinking that cold air to the carburetor would be best for performance so would it be better to buy a regular breather cap and disconnect that hose leading to the air cleaner?

Thanks for the responses. It is one of those why didn’t I think of that answers. Will use a T connector and check it that way.

Adding the AVS2 to my stock 383. The manual states to check the old carburetor vacuum port to see if there is full vacuum at idle or not. My old Carter did have a vacuum so I should then hook up the vacuum line to the drivers side port on the AVS since the passenger side is for port timed. So...

Thanks for the input. I’ll go with the four hole match. The new carburetor came with the open gasket so wasn’t sure if correct or not for stock intake.

I have a stock intake manifold on my 383. Installing an Edelbrock AVS2. Would an open gasket and spacer be better than the four hole type?

The restoration shop tested it on a running engine at their shop before they shipped it so I did just bolt it on. Never drove the car before I received it as it needed work. So can’t really say how it ran prior except driving it off the trailer and down the end of the street into the garage.

I am using a brand new stock type of fuel pump. I also had the stock carburetor restored so I assume those two items are working properly. I may need the carb to be dialed in better though.

I’ll check that. Thanks Don.