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LOL…
WELL I don’t get the lol comment. Is true, that alt is a replacement alt for 70/71 (able to be assembled for previous years too) and is actually set for a single field setup (pre 70). Is not correct for 74, neither on look, or the actual setup.
:)
I would leave the air bleeds alone, and set the front and rear throttle plates to expose the transfer slots square. Adjust idle screws, and if engine is idling too slow, then likely have to drill a small hole(s) in the throttle plates to where idle speed increases, and then you can slightly...
Installed the TTI 2.5” X-pipe exhaust system and welded on the tips. Used Evil Energy exhaust clamps. Also fab’d up an extra bracket near the back to make sure the over axel pipes stayed in place.
The IFR is not sized for.....idle!!!! There is always enough fuel for idle.
The IFR is sized for the t-slot, for transition to the main cct....
Changing the idle air bleed will not change the idle mixture. The idle mixture screws do that....
The IAB will change where idle cct [ which includes...
How in the world did you find 1 MOOG PITMAN ARMS , much less 2 ????
A MOOG PITMAN ARM for that application has been OBSOLETE/ DISCONTINUED for two decades ......
The bat voltage at the bal res will depend on how many other devices/electrical components are hanging off the ign supply cct. These will cause a voltage drop through the wiring & 11v at the bal res could be normal for that car. My car drops about 1v through the harness.
Yes, with mostly city driving I would go one step hotter, NGK '4' s. The hotter plug should help burn off some of the carbon deposits on the insulator which are bleeding off some of the spark energy. I use 4s in a car that gets drag raced.
Simple. Adjust the mixture screws for best idle, as is. I am assuming the current initial timing is at or near the factory timing. Warm up the engine, chock the wheels, put into gear if auto.
Loosen the dist clamp & slowly turn the dist to advance the timing; keep going until you have the...