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2 layers of plywood on my carport floor. It does the job.

I've been doing business with him for over 40 years. It's the world we live in.

Try buying a NOS 1970 switch without taking a mortgage out :lol:

I bought the proper A, B, E and C body ball joint sockets years ago in the early 80s. I still have them, they work great for pressing bearings on and off with the press. Lol.

You can find a switch for a C Body that will work for around $180. Exactly the same mechanism only with 3 extra wires.

The moisture packets only last so long and then you have to microwave them to re-activate. Been there, done that. Not to mention with the set up I had, you had to crawl into the cocoon and retrieve them, then put em back. Won't make that mistake again. I like the one @RR Fan Dan posted above. 9...

and get away with it. :BangHead:

Hope it all gos well for you.

My mom never said that to me because.....:D

And say there was a run on claims, so they are out of funds to pay out.

:bday::bday::bday::bday::bday::bday::bday::bday::bday::bday: :drinks::drinks::drinks::drinks::drinks::drinks::drinks::drinks::drinks::drinks:

1969 Daytona uses 1970 Charger fenders 1970 Superbird uses 1970 Coronet fenders

then they take off when the whole city burns down.

.

https://aarqualityfiberglass.com/product/kit-dodge-daytona/

The low first year is a sweetener to get you reeled in. Then they clobber you with a 250% increase.

http://www.wingedwarriorbodyparts.com/daytonaparts.html

Insurance companies are thieves

Start with a '70 Charger for a Daytona. Keep the Charger front end. You will need a nose kit and a rear window plug and glass plus the wing as a minimum.

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