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This is an NOS horn button (or ornament as Mopar calls it) for a 1963 Dodge. No box, but, it's in excellent new condition. The casting number on the part is 2401208. The part number listed in the FSM is 2401206. $95 picked up here in San Diego, or, add $12 for shipping. I take PayPal (add $3...

I've had both. The 400 forged crank is the same one used on the 383 with a forged crank. Same balancer too except for the pulley bolt pattern. The 383 cast crank is the same as the 400 cast crank too.

What engine is in the car now? I know it could have been changed over all these years, but, it might give an indication. The VIN shows a 383 4bbl. The fender tag shows a 318.

Yeah, some photos of the car may help. Lots of Canadian cars used Dodge front ends with Plymouth back ends and vice versa. Maybe this was an assigned VIN to replace a lost one? The stamped shipping order number on the core support should match the one on the fender tag. What sort of paperwork...

I was referring to the aluminum park cable cover and connecting link.

Do you still need?

How about after break-in? What is a recommended oil for regular use in a flat tappet engine.

There's also the rare possibility of case porosity. Some castings just have flaws and/or thin spots where fluid will seep right through the case. If it's not a pressurized area, you can sometimes seal it with some 2 part epoxy, such as JB weld. You have to get the case absolutely clean and dry...

This NOS Mopar part is used on radios with a tape player option. These radios have a pig tail where the tape player cable plugs in. If the tape player isn't plugged in, the radio won't work unless it has this socket plugged into the radio pig tail. $45 delivered to a first 48 state U.S. address...

This is an NOS Mopar brake booster vacuum check valve for a Bendix booster with disc brakes. The part number is 3004626 and is listed as a kit, but, no grommet with this item, just the valve with it's cap. I see it listed for '68-70 B and C body cars in the parts manuals. Does it fit Hemi, 6...

Hey, don't forget the Volare Road Runners! :lol:

If your state has private titling businesses like we have here in Ca.) you might try one of those too. They usually have an "in" with the state DMV and can get things done that us mere mortals have trouble with.

Yes.

I have e8 as being a rear window defogger. I don't show a d8. Maybe a d6, which would be a rear speaker? Oh, sold now.....I'll go back to sleep.....

My info lists a G1 as being tinted glass all windows. Doesn't look like it from your photos though...

There's also one made for the slant 6 too. In all versions, there were both long tail slip yoke and short tail bolt-on flange versions, along with both linkage and cable shift depending on year. Truck/van/motorhome versions have a timing hole cut into the bell housings for easier ignition...

Wider overall because of the taller heads. The block is the same width as the LA block.

They will swap if: both are long tail shaft, slip yoke, big block 727's. Things to look for are: converter weights (400 and 440 use different ones) Lockup and non-lockup as already mentioned, bolt pattern on the converter to flex plate (there are two different ones) If I were you, I would have...

I do that type of work if you can't get it done locally.

Assuming the engine was balanced before and didn't vibrate, you have a forged crank balancer, so, the crank should be forged too. Looks forged in your last photos. Your old torque converter shouldn't have had any weights welded to it. If it didn't, another indication your crank is forged.