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Yeah, by then they were all riveted. My build date is 8-17-65.

Real early '66 model were spot welded, not riveted. I know because I have one.

That seems pretty Mickey Mouse.....

What kind of hose did they use to go from a 3/8 sender nipple to a 5/16 line?

Last photo is manual adjust brakes. I assume you meant to make them self-adjusted. The lower spring needs to go into the big hole in the lead shoe. I know it doesn't look right, but, just loop it through (what looks like backwards) and it will stay. On a side note, make sure the cable guide...

Plain white vinegar is the cheapest for rust removal. Lemon juice works a bit better/quicker, but, more expensive. The industrial (30%?) vinegar really works fast, but, at a much higher cost than the previous two. Neutralize with baking soda and distilled water and prime as soon as it dries.

If you mean to make it electronic instead of points, yes, Pertronics makes a kit for the dual point that keeps the original look on the outside. Since you replaced the 383 with a 440+6, original has long since left the building.

Even 50+ years ago, it you installed new drums on a old hub and staked them properly, you still needed to true them up on a brake lathe.

I had the same problem with them years ago. I bought some items from them at their booth at car shows, but, trying to get ahold of them on the phone or online was hopeless. Haven't tried since as I was able to find other sources of the same parts.

If these were my cars and I wanted to make the most with the least work......I'd leave the 440-6 in the Coronet, and install the already build 400 in the Challenger. Building new engines for either one is a money loser. If you're getting out of the Mopar business, sell the other engines as cores...

This water pump/idler belt fits various '66-70 big block without A/C applications, (including some police) but, do your own research to verify it fits yours. $45 picked up here in San Diego, or, $69 delivered (including PayPal fees) to a first 48 state U.S. address only. I take cash and Venmo...

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This P/S belt fits several '70-up big block applications, so, do your own research to verify it fits yours. $45 picked up here in San Diego, or $69 delivered (including PayPal fees) to a first 48 state U.S. address. Nothing like NOS for that restoration! I take cash and Venmo in person too.

This fan belt fits several '70 and up big block with A/C applications, so, do your own research to verify it will fit yours. When only an NOS part will do! $45 picked up here in San Diego, or $69 delivered (including PayPal fees) to a first 48 state U.S. address. Cash or Venmo also accepted in...

If you find you need another E-body housing, I have a buddy in Auckland that may have one. Just let me know....

AS mentioned, it's up to you and your piece of mind, but, that section of the axle shaft is not where they break under extreme conditions. I'd run it not give it a second thought.

This is an NOS horn button (or ornament as Mopar calls it) for a 1963 Dodge. No box, but, it's in excellent new condition. The casting number on the part is 2401208. The part number listed in the FSM is 2401206. $95 picked up here in San Diego, or, add $12 for shipping. I take PayPal (add $3...

I've had both. The 400 forged crank is the same one used on the 383 with a forged crank. Same balancer too except for the pulley bolt pattern. The 383 cast crank is the same as the 400 cast crank too.

What engine is in the car now? I know it could have been changed over all these years, but, it might give an indication. The VIN shows a 383 4bbl. The fender tag shows a 318.