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Yes.

I have e8 as being a rear window defogger. I don't show a d8. Maybe a d6, which would be a rear speaker? Oh, sold now.....I'll go back to sleep.....

My info lists a G1 as being tinted glass all windows. Doesn't look like it from your photos though...

There's also one made for the slant 6 too. In all versions, there were both long tail slip yoke and short tail bolt-on flange versions, along with both linkage and cable shift depending on year. Truck/van/motorhome versions have a timing hole cut into the bell housings for easier ignition...

Wider overall because of the taller heads. The block is the same width as the LA block.

They will swap if: both are long tail shaft, slip yoke, big block 727's. Things to look for are: converter weights (400 and 440 use different ones) Lockup and non-lockup as already mentioned, bolt pattern on the converter to flex plate (there are two different ones) If I were you, I would have...

I do that type of work if you can't get it done locally.

Assuming the engine was balanced before and didn't vibrate, you have a forged crank balancer, so, the crank should be forged too. Looks forged in your last photos. Your old torque converter shouldn't have had any weights welded to it. If it didn't, another indication your crank is forged.

A B-body radio has a peak in the middle of the clear face plate. With black buttons, probably not a high end model as those usually had chrome buttons. IIRC, there should be a stamped model number somewhere on the metal housing. Originally, there would have been a paper tag with the full part...

Solder connections at the nipple/tank junction are probably cracked.

Posting the VIN and fender tag would answer a lot of questions about this car.......

I've always just used 85-90w, or, 90-140w with a GL-5 rating and never had an issue.

A thermostat housing without a hose barb is worthless IMO. Just an accident waiting to happen. Why do you think just about all the companies who designed and made them put that barb on there? Hoses can compress after time, especially shortly after the initial install. The Corbin clamps keep...

At $6 a shrink wrap clamp (and not to mention what a bitch it might be to pull that hose back off if needed) I'll stick to my regular clamps thank you.

If the odometer is accurate and the speedometer is not, it's the tension spring for the needle that needs adjusting.

Test and/or replace the radiator cap, and for sure get a thermostat cover with a lip so the hose won't just slide off.

IIRC, there's a partial VIN stamped in the firewall or cowl area too.

A2 is a 2.94 ratio with an 8 3/4 rear end.

That's what my info says too.

Price reduced to $20ea. +