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Are you using Trick Flow heads? If you are, and also using head studs, the studs might be restricting flow because the Trick Flow heads bring oil up to the rocker stand through the head bolt hole like on the Mopar small block (just both from #4 cam bearing.)

I think the HS rockers have ball adjusters and use cup pushrods? With the ball adjuster, the oil hole is usually near the adjuster threads and sprays on the outside of the adjuster. The Cup type adjusters that use ball end pushrods oil through the adjuster to where there is a limited amount of...

I would have said 0.055" over for 4.375" bore because there is a good selection of pistons and rings in that size, but you said it was already 0.060" over.

TTI headers fit nice. Haven't used Dougs, but hear good things about them. I would avoid the Hooker 2" primary headers, but the 1-7/8" are OK. Been a long time (1990's) since I tryed some of the cheaper brands, like Blackjack and Headman, because of low quality.

should be fine. Sonic check the bores will give you more information.

Try it at the recommended 106 degrees, you have the gear and converter for it.

I think on many engines, like the old Mopars, the keyway is in-line with the front crank throw. If the keyway is square to the drivers side block deck, then the piston should be at TDC (ideally, but machining tolerances can mess that up.) This just shows the cam degreed off by about 45-degrees :)

Might need some WD-40 and a large pry bar to get the rear shackles out if the bushings if they are all dry and rusted. Be careful, I did have a car fall off the cheap type jack stand trying to get one of the rear shackles out of the body. I think I cleaned up the bushing hole in the body with...

Check what the required primer/sealer color is supposed to be. With the Summit Racing Bronze single stage paint, they want that over a black primer/sealer

Sorry I can't help, but I'll watch this because I have a 2008 6.1L with the Nag1 pullout I might try swapping into an old coronet also.

Look at the shift kit instructions for how the throttle valve / spring assembly goes into the valve body, and also the gap between the throttle valve and lever stop.

looks good. make sure to use matching valve springs

If a re-ring will seal it up, run the low compression and a high stall converter. Sounds like it's just until the other engine is done.

No under car or suspension photos, and no photos with the top up? Sort of an odd situation where it looks like a pretty nice almost survivor, but nice paint job and some other items taking away the survivor vibe. Fully restored I could see it getting $100,000 by those who want the new/restored...

Testors Fluorescent paint, but I blended some yellow and I think a touch of green with the orange to get a shade closer to stock looking.

The mounting plate was sold by a member here. The Infinity Kappa magnets are pretty big and hit the heater cable originally before I installed the vintage air system.

https://www.imperialservices.net/imps.html

Short circuit. as mentioned check that the bulbs are correct for the sockets. I would remove all the bulbs and inspect sockets and wiring, the see if fuse blows with bulbs removed. If it still blows, remove the drivers side kick panel and disconnect the rear wiring harness from the connector...

I have the blue, I think moroso brand gaskets. Solid cam, so wanted something re-useable.

That looks really nice with alot of upgrades. just make sure to inspect it in person before buying it.