Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
My saga of the heater lines continues. I reached out to Holley because in the instructions for the mid mount kit they do not tell you which heater hose is the inlet and the outlet, rather they say to hook them up correctly...
Holley came back and provided some direct information and even...
I have done a little bit of work on the car lately but not much. I have driven it a couple of times up an down the road just to log some data and do some tuning (actually have a friend doing the tuning).
I got the air grabber working, there was one wire that wasn't making contact in one of my...
Ok, I should have been more specific in that in two cases I am running 120-16A alternators on brand new wiring harnesses with upgraded cables.
On the one other case (my 70 Challenger) I am running a 120A alternator with the original (but inspected and upgraded) wiring harness.
My 71 Charger...
I run 120 - 160 amp for EFI cars, currently running a 150A on my 5.7 in my 71 Charger. This came with the Holley mid mount kit and is recommended by them for the terminator X max system. While its true that most cars are not going to draw 150A the stability in current at that point is required...
@Nacho-RT74 I know this is an old thread but I need clarification that my arrangement for my 71 Charger is incorrect. It appears that I have the 2 speed link and arms (the match the link) but on a 3spd motor? The wiper motor is from a 73 B/E body.
I appreciate any help.
I was having some issues with the clutch, namely I felt that the Hyd TB had air in it because it didn't like to go into reverse. I spent some time working on that and managed to get it fixed up.
At this point I could not help but notice I had an increasing puddle on the floor of what appeared...
Yeah I am pretty aware that a Challenger is not a B body having owned like 9 of them as well and at least an equal amount of B bodies. My point is that neither of them are prone to breaking the windshield due to body flex on a street car. Now maybe with big HP, slicks and a sticky track...
Yeah not my first rodeo with them, back around 04 or so I bought a 91 Stealth RT for like $2500, went to get plates and they told me that the tax value was $18000... I ended up licensing it in ND (my home state) and then eventually relicensed it in WA at the correct value via a form they came up...
Subframe connectors are nice and I would say if you are building a sub 10 second car that you are actually going to race then you absolutely need them (and a cage). Likewise a street car can benefit from chassis stiffening significantly as it will handle much better BUT a lot of very fast street...
I have them in 3 of my 5 cars. That said know that there are 2 versions of the 80s version (the one in the pic with the black plastic). One version is for I believe Imperials and the like whereas the other is for like the 5th Ave, maybe New Yorker. The difference is in the area where the latch...