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Welcome all, like I said I hope the information is helpful to someone at some point.

Well as I said I looked pretty hard for some information and found very little, some of what I did find was completely or partially incorrect (like you have to remove the outer weather strip). It is a difficult thing to explain "how to do" but much of it is evident once you get into it. Keep...

Well I ended up having to remove that drivers door glass because of the mirror cable routing but that wasn't a big deal. It also gave me a chance to lubricate everything. I ended up getting both door windows in and adjusted. Now I am going to look at some of the electrical and tune that up a...

So now the glass should be in and functional, it is now just a matter of adjusting it (and the quarter glass if present). Consult the manual for adjustment, here again not rocket science. The bottom of the tracks can be adjusted to get the glass to come in or go out. If there is a gap between...

Now everything should be attached albeit loosely, the window should roll up WATCH THE TOP OF THE WINDOW, IT WILL WANT TO GO UNDER THE DOOR FRAME. - With the window down, install the up stop brackets and the guides loosely - Raise the window up and snug up the various bolts. Lower the window...

So now you have the regulator attached to the glass and the front track loosely connected to the glass, now you will attach the rear track to the glass. - Manipulate the rear track until you can get it into the channel on the glass and just like the front you can put in a bolt on the top to...

Ok so now you have everything in the door, its time to put it all together. I highly recommend you go to HF and get some rectangular LEDs so that you can see. You are going to be looking through every hole in that door to try and see what is going on and it can be a challenge at times...

So here are some pictures. - The 2 square holes on the top of the door frame are for the window tracks - The 2 slots on top of the door frame are for the window guides (fuzzy brackets) - The regulator is held on by 3 short 1/4-20 bolts - The 2 rectangular holes with the slots on the inside...

Ok so now how do we get all of this into the door? Let me say right now that this does take some patience (not something I have a lot of), it is NOT hard, in fact it is pretty easy if you take your time and understand how the window works (not rocket science). Take your time and don't fight it...

Let me begin by saying that I am sure there are other ways to accomplish this task, however what I am about to depict is how I just did on my 71 charger. Also, I will probably leave out something so forgive me but I am sure other members will chime in to fill in what I miss. I decided to make...

The console just "teeters" on those brackets and does not really fit the floor as you would imagine (I have 2 E bodies currently). I agree with attaching the brackets to the console and then aligning it.

Back window in and drivers door glass (needs to be adjusted)

Polished up the back window and laid it in, I am waiting on some urethane primer before actually installing it. I also put the weather stripping in over the doors.

Got the mirrors on... LOL and added some stickers to the air cleaner

Here is the end result of my efforts.

Ive been working on the fuel system (again). The main problem that I ran into is that I could not get a wrench onto the fuel line nuts on the cross member pass through tubes I had made. I used an existing hole in the cross member but that ended up putting the nuts very close. When I first did it...

I do not believe anyone is re-popping the 71-74 Charger (or RR) fenders, you have to go used.

Ok so it primes but will not start unless you use starting fluid? What this says to me at this point is that the injectors are not working or at least working correctly. The starting fluid is obviously igniting in the cylinders which is creating a vacuum and drawing the fuel in to sustain it...

Your PCM is not priming the fuel pump during the start up. it should prime and then turn off until you start it (crank the engine) and then run. I would say that this is almost certainly a PCM issue.

I would say that it is definitely possible, testing and diagnostics should show if it is bad or not.