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You could also use an adhesive oil pan heater...

Welcome from se ohio good luck with build

As I just sent you in the PM, pic that took for ever to find. There is a tab off the bottom of the fender top that takes a clip on J nut, then stud and once shield is in place a captive washer nut. Hopefully someone has a better picture showing the clip nut and stud before the shield is in place.

My '68 Dart had a combusting ammeter as did my '80 Power Wagon. My '67 Dart, '68 Coronet, and '73 Power Wagon have not had that issue. I believe the two that did have an issue were daily driven for most of their lives (well into the 90's and beyond) whereas the others predominantly sat the...

You are making too many assumptions. Including many of our cars have built in regulators. As a degreed electrical engineer with 40 years of experience in the industrial electrical world with 29 years as a recognized subject matter expert this is my professional opinion and I'm sticking to...

I started installing the bodyplugs in preparation for spraying the undercoating. This was a bit of a PITA because some were missing from my car so my reference photos weren’t as helpful as I hoped. I was able to find a few images on the internet that helped. I thought I’d document where they go...

Does anyone have a decent picture of what the top left bolt of the splash shield bolts into? I circled it in red in this pic. My splash shield is missing this and I have a new shield on order. I looked in 70 fsm and no luck. Any help is welcome.

SOME “good information”, bulkhead by-pass maybe. The problem with the MAD article that everyone likes to promote as proof that all Chrysler ammeters will spontaneously combust for no reason whatsoever, most readers miss the part about the article stating it specifically addresses the...

This is about the best I have of my 74 New Yorker with a 440.

I went to electronics school in 74. Our first semester was vacuum tubes. Second semester was solid state, third got into cutting edge technology, ic (integrated circuits). Gasp!

thats actually great to know, I thought they didn't so I was going to figure in new clutch and flywheel price. Keeping the stock rods, a new crank is 600$ and new pistons are starting to figure the way out, just need to do everything else before i work on an engine, tires ain't cheap.

Not all wiper arms have that catch, some have to be neutral. You have to finger thumb the reciever, ball side and other hand ahold of the arm, wiggle and keep it neutral, rocking it side to side. No hammering. Wouldn't be a bad idea to have some dry silicone lubricant on it for next time.

I remember loading software from 3.5 floppy disks sometimes the 3-7 disks would take 2-4 hours and with any luck they would all work. I learned to carry multiple sets of disks, drive cleaners, and drives themselves. The world got a lot easier when i bought my first backpack CD rom.

Welcome from New Jersey!

For those of us with less than stellar eyesight and small cellphone screens:p: Seller: Doug Fales Salem, New Hampshire *** RM23V0A179707 Mopar Parts Buy Sell Trade USA

Movie cars: Cannonball Run: Mad Max: Bond:

I found them! https://www.allpar.com/d3/history/mopar/electrical.html Vintage Chrysler electrical repairs and updates (part 2) Repairing vintage Chrysler - Plymouth - Dodge starters MAD Electrical also has some good information on the subject. Catalog

G'day from Australia :welcome:

Both of your wiper arms have a catch on them as shown. Make sure the catch is in the open position as shown above. Then slip the arm over the pivot and push the catch inwards to lock it on the pivot. If you are forcing them on - then chances are you have bent the catch. Inspect the underside...