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eBay it for fifty bucks!

Nice thing about 17" wheels you can fit many aftermarket disc brake kits w/far more room & on a bigger wheel well like the B-bodies have in 68-70 anyway 17 front & 18's rear is the about the biggest I'd do, fits nicely if you get the right tire/wheel combo, it 'still looks good' & not too...

The '67 console will work just fine, if you are not building numbers matching. It is a small detail that most spectators would never notice.

If you have your owners manual, there will be a listing of bulb numbers and positions. Top one may be a 1004, lower a 67. LED replacements available. I replaced my interior and exterior bulbs with LED's. What a difference! You can repair the plastic on the console. Use something along the line...

You need to get out of the house more often Wayne. :poke::lol:

What about making a pin in stand out of pipe. Then you can put on it's back.

Unfortunately that’s the only one I have, the other car has a base in it. I’ll check it out and see if it is a 2 piece next time I get to the shop.

For reference , you can't tell just looking that my slicks are on 16s, look just like 15s. But if you do go to 17s, make sure you get enough sidewall height so they look right. (Suv 17s have plenty of height, don't look like rubber band tires)

@Kern Dog

I've got a pair of sixteens on my 62..... cause I found new 16" slicks cheap. But I agree with ALL the above that say either 15s or 17s. It's All about tire selection. I had to special order the 16s for my Z28 camaro, but only cause I wasn't ready to go to 17s or 18s at the moment. I'm sure...

Console appears to be 1967 or newer, because it is one piece. The 1966 consoles were two piece, with the rear segment being a bolt-on unit. This allowed the base console to be also be used in Chargers, by bolting on the long rear console piece.

My grandfather got immediate, effective protection. Nobody considering stealing from him after they saw the logo of the “detective agency” on his storefront.

I already have an external regulator on my current alternator and will probably keep it for the new one as well. Will check with tuff stuff if these will fit my setup: 130 Amp 130 Amp Chrysler Alternator #9509DP - TUFF STUFF Performance Accessories 100 Amp Chrysler Alternator #8509DP - TUFF...

NO. Can we assume the lower control arm bushings were replaced? Mike

that was exactly my intention of the thread/post strongarming scam, legal now, pay me now for protection "maybe later"

Caroline Munro - she played many campy roles

I know I thought they would help until I saw Kiwi’s underline sentence below. Well that’s a shame.

Nice project you have going. I see a wagon in the background.

Back in the day, my grandfather paid “protection” to the Brooklyn, NY mob. I dealt with similar players in the corporate world, two generations later. Legal extortion, probably not as good a value…

I had to replace the front floor pan and trunk floor in my '64 Polara. I removed the old floors by carefully marking out where the crossmembers were with chalk and cut the bad stuff out with a cutoff wheel. Then, I removed the spot welds on the crossmembers with spot welds cutters. I bought...