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Those high spring loads are a flat cam waiting to happen! Running a dirt track car? OK.... lots of oil splash to keep things lubed. Street car? No...
I ran 160/335 on my race motors but not on the street unless you regularly run 7k driving to Dairy Queen
Standard bore, stock pistons and crank and factory windage tray. It’s a long block, no manifolds or timing cover. See pictures for what’s included.
The number is on the block are really hard to read, they weren’t stamped very well:
Front of block under drivers side head:
3M 340 02028147...
Yep....LED lighting sucks. I'm not getting half the work I used to for doing repairs on lighting. :lol:
You get what you pay for and unfortunately a lot of people buy the cheapest lighting...... not always fit for purpose.
Needs a good ground to the fender, the lower bracket has some teeth designed to dig through the paint and undercoating on the underside of the fender panel. I will add a separate ground wire using a ring terminal under the mounting stud nut to insure a good ground to the lamp housing.
I bought a 1984 CJ7 for a daily driver. A leaky brake cylinder led to replacing pads, shoes, drums, lines, rotors, everything but the junction blocks. Last night I got down to the spindles and they are chewed to ****! So, no work on the GTX lately.
You will get LOTS of answers. ALL different. I run break in oil for 2000 miles; it is not just the cam that has to break in. After break in, pick your favourite oil that is designed for FT cams.