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That's why I asked which housing he had.

There's six. Look at a housing gasket, that should tell you which ones could use a sealer. (I'm using elephant ears, so mine are all studded) Drain the coolant, pull the bolts one at a time, seal it, put it back, next.....

I've got the same caps as #8 on my 62 Savoy. From my 67 Barracuda. (Cuda got small pattern centerlines).

2.76s and a stick will be a REAL challenge on a dragstrip, and not real easy to deal with on the street. I'd be willing to bet that that Monte had an auto trans with a steep first gear.

It's easier to set cam endplay without the oilpump drive in place. Also, more accurate.

Are you looking at a cast iron cam, or billet steel? Billet will require a melonized or bronze distributor drive gear. And your timing set will likely have to be three bolt. I have read opinions (on A-bodies) that big blocks don't need a thrust button, because of how the front distributor is...

Lunati got bought by somebody (holley? Comp cams?) and I'm sure whoever it was wants to discontinue any less popular stuff. I was shopping for a bbc solid flat tappet, and really liked some of the Lunati grinds. I hope Lunati doesn't completely go away.

I think the zerk is located where it can be greased without disassembly. Kinda hard to do in the center. And I much prefer the solid joints too. How many times is a zerk-fitted u-joint routinely greased?

Then Fran's #3 is the answer I would go with. Regarding a greasable joint..... just make sure the joint is installed with the zerk in compression under power. Yes, solid is preferred, but if greased combo is all that's available......?

If it was a race car with a stick and twelve inch slicks, that's what I'd recommend too. I've got a four inch aluminum shaft with billet yokes and 1350s on both ends, in my 14"slick transbrake car. "Spirited" street driving doesn't need it. Unnecessary expense.

Stick shift with big block torque? Go as big as practical. 2nd on Frans answer. (Or more). Assuming 8 3/4. What # housing? (Spacer or crush sleeve?)

Unless you were running early closed chamber iron heads, getting quench with later model iron heads would require a reverse dome on one side, and a dish on the other to get reasonable compression. I haven't seen one of those lately. Could custom order one, I suppose. But then , if I were...

If it's a decent engine shop, yes. I bought a leakdown tester/spring tester combo several years back. It was to be used in a vice. It worked pretty good. They are available for home use, but are about three times as expensive as when I bought mine. I loaned it out, never got it back. A REAL...

If you decide to replace it, my go-to in your spot would probably be a repop Hemi 6qt pan. I'm betting Mancini and 440 source have em. You will need a pickup tube too. It looks like it's got a windage tray, so you'll need two pan gaskets.

My impression is that anything from 440 source that is made in the US, then MADE IN AMERICA is trumpeted in their catalog. Nothing wrong with that. To be honest? If I needed a dropped center link, I'd give either one a try.

I certainly believe the Chinese can make a good, quality product, IF the entity contracting for it REQUIRES a quality product. As to geometry: I'm not scientist, but I did stay in a holiday Inn once. If the attachment points are in the same place, I don't see how geometry can be affected. But...

Depends on the winch, and how easily the b-body rolls, and how high the trailer floor is. Strong enough winch, strong enough chain (chair?) Id give it a shot, if the tires aren't flat and the brakes aren't stuck.

I was shopping summit for an oil pan for my Opel, and ran across a pan that looked an awful lot like yours. Specs said it was a 7+1 pan.

Any swap trom 14s to 15s is a good thing.

The deeper the sump, the higher the ride height needs to be. In theory, with the dipstick tube stuck in the block, (instead of stuck in the pan, like some bbc) the full level should not change, assuming the dipstick used is correct. A fifteen qt pan, and a four quart pan should both come to...