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^^^^^ This is exactly it.

A socket or piece of pipe under the casting to support it going out and in is all you need, they tap right out. 3 of them come out in a separate casting, have seen those broken from trying to get by not removing it, also remember there are black and red printed diodes, they do not interchange.

I run .023 in .030 liner on a miller 200 with tip and roller change. It really likes lincoln .023 wire on sheet metal, am told lincoln wire has or had more silicon in it.

^^^^Yes that is what I remember too. They also had big drums of water and some kind of rations in green cans in the school basement.....I am 10 miles from norad Nebraska we will be vapor.

I use a white king bedsheet.

You have to slide the control arm back.

We do agree, the problem is the alternators now availiable are almost always past the design limits. All I know is my plastic gauged 4x4 has made it 40 years since I had the dash out and 120k miles, snow plow, a/c, trailer tow, 100 amp at idle alternator with nothing more than tightening every...

I give up....the fiber insulators can do the same thing. When an idiot tightens the ammeter nuts without holding the nut behind the terminal it twists the shunt. The stud is swaged in and this action loosens it. That is all. Plastic or metal it will heat up and fail. Can we just agree it is a...

I disagree on the ammeter, my ammeter in my 70 is constructed exactly the same as my 75 truck, studs pushed thru a strap. That connection can get loose and cause heat, just reaching g up behind a dash with a wrench and tightening it is a bad idea, 2 wrenches so you do not stress the connection...

Absolute perfection for an enjoyable road car.

Sometimes it is hard to get the pedal height right/comfortable and not have the throwout bearing ride the fingers. The 70 and down b-bodies are the worst as the over center spring will not let the pedal up until the last inch, at least on the 440-6 and hemi cars. I like it lower and just make it...

Oh ya the Ram cleaning lady, really popular with the Ford guys it seemed back in the 70s. I recall it being a 3 puck disc but could be wrong.

This will help, make sure the ammeter leads are tight using 2 wrenches, check and clean the bulkhead connector, fuse or fuse link the new lead you add between the alternator and battery, and hooking any new accessories to that lead, not in the car will go a long way to avoid new problems.

Well the problem is they do, especially dodge trucks, they corrode internally where the stud is pressed into the brass straps and gets worse when somebody just throws a wrench on the nuts and cranks them down bending things inside the gauge. Always a wrench on each nut when you tighten the leads...

That is kinda what we see around here too, granted we are not arizona with high ambient temps most of the year. It seems the fleet, police type vehicles had most of the problems, always blamed on idle time, I say oil change and proper oil is the key. I just do not buy the big oil pump on a 5.7...

I saw that...what I see at idle tells me no way that is the real problem. Thin oil, bad parts, lack of oil changes maybe. 5.7 may have lower pressure with 5-20 at idle. But so many make it to 200k miles so who really knows.

That is typical of what I experienced since the 70s with melling high volume pumps, I would not be happy with what you have either. It could just need a stiffer spring or the 440 source adjustable oil pump relief plug replacement. Fwiw my hellcat idles at 65-70 cold 45 at 212, 65-70 on the...

You would think on a big block it would be pretty hard with only one cam bearing feeding oil, unless the cam is grooved. Stock pan and thick oil maybe.

I would not worry too much about pumping the pan dry with a big block and shaft rockers. Powell machine has a u-tube video debunking this for most engines. Even with bearing clearance at .002 I could never get by with a standard pump....you need about 10 psi per thousand rpm. I would not leave...

Thank you for the code John.