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Because of OSHA, I had to deal with a knee-high work sink for 20 years, cause some day some little person might need to use it. Never happened. Not once.

Those hats are for Brits/Europeans with tiny gutless sportscars.

I'd swap those side to side, to point the turndowns at each other. That's a suggestion a friend of mine made a few years ago, and I did it to my Cortina. I liked the sound and they kinda smoothed out the tone. I was using 3 1/2 hooker aero's. (Also blew less garbage at warm tires on the return...

I had pics of four different wheel setups on my 62. Unfortunately, on a tablet my dogs destroyed..... ( i tend to change wheels and tires on my cars like underwear. Once a month)

I'd give it a shot. Your reasoning is good. Worst that could happen, you blow a head gasket. Not the end of the world.

I have dealt with Brian and Fred at IMM. They are good old Mopar guys, and really know what they are doing. In your spot, with your budget, I'd sure talk to Brian before I spent any money elsewhere. I found Brian's heads by Googleing sidewinder small block mopar heads, and his post came up...

Wait for speedmasters black friday sale, and buy a pair of cnc heads bare, and go from there. $1400 budget for sbm heads is pretty small. You could get decent sbc heads for that price. Sidewinder or 440 source would be alternates. If you REALLY want it to run like it should...... save your...

I'd saw away most of the flanges, and split them. I split all the flanges on my headers. When each cylinder is independent of the others, the flanges don't need to be excessively thick.

A 496 might net breathe as well as a 512, but if I had a 383, a 496 is what I would do.... along with the best heads I could afford. Edit. A 383/496 mopar has the exact same bore/stroke as the 454/stroked to 496 that the chevy guys all love.

My tires time-out LONG before they wear out. I need all the years I can get. I'd send em back (IF summit pays the shipping bill !)

I'd research how hard it is to find a replacement, and how much it would cost. Then make decision off that info. Since I'm betting the scar is exactly where the new bearing will be..... I'd smooth the edges, give it a light polish.... and run it.

Doug is saying you'll need 512cu inches to get to 500rwhp. I think that's probably around 650 crank hp to get to 500 rwhp with an auto (my opinion only). That is a completely unrealistic goal for a mom in law driving 383. To be honest, for someone unfamiliar with a bbm, I'd think 450 crank...

I don't really care for the conical seat "bulge" nuts for most guys, because most of the time they require longer studs all around. I have some and I use them, cause I already have 3" studs on everything that's fast, but I still prefer mag style lugs. I absolutely agree, on the direct fit Cragars.

Depends on how he feels about putting Dodge caps on a Plymouth. (Wouldn't bother me a bit! and those are nice caps)

.... and that's still too high for pump gas IMO, without a BIIIGGG camshaft! (Yours isnt).

Do what DVW tells you to do. He is the master. Edit: calculate the compression ratio for the 906s with around 88-90 cc's, not the 75 or so that Mopar says they are (they lied). Clean the mouse turds out of the 906s, and get a estimate to freshen them up/valve job. I'm betting the 440 source...

I'd calculate the compression ratio (requires measurements) for both the 906s, and some 440 source stealth heads. TF are real nice, not necessary for a driver. I'd probably not put any money into 906s. If it's too high for pump gas, I'd wack off the domes (assuming solid dome) and rebalance...

Just my opinion, it looks like a Detroit (or other brand, grizzley?) locker to me. A new 8 3/4 locker alone is around $800. As said above, it is certainly NOT a spool.

Of those three..... the corgi, 100%

I'm pretty sure the bottom four on the left are tens. The a-bodies in the box on the right are nines, I think. I think there are two versions of the bottom far right, nine and ten. (I THINK. I could easily be wrong.)