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I explained that in post #1: "The older style (painted white) is a heavy metal (cast iron)"

I don't believe either one is the factory style for this 1972 340 factory intake manifold, but both will physically bolt on. The older style (painted white) is a heavy metal (cast iron) and a little pitted here and there, but cleaned up best I could. The other is a lighter metal (aluminum?) and...

I was contemplating that modification this morning but decided against it being it's just a temporary addition to the vehicle's end goal. I'll leave it up to the next owner if he/she so desires.

Update: De-rusted oil filter adaptor and fuel pump eccentric (Evaporust, white vinegar baths and then chrome polish with a brush). I am always surprised to find no wear groove has been evident in the used fuel pump eccentrics I have seen. Eventually I will change over to a 90 degree adaptor when...

All Star Cast to Boot:

The article also omits a 440 six-barrel option. I believe that was also an option in '71?

Do you take off the nuts and hit the end of the rod bolt? Or maybe leave the nut on but loose?

I just read a post on Facebook that stated "Leather or fabric upholstery options". My parents purchased a special order 71 Road Runner when I was sixteen years old. I don't remember a leather interior being on the option sheet. Did I miss that available fabric choice back then?

The installation of new ARP rod bolts in the 340 connecting rods is making it difficult to pull the large end of the connecting rod apart. I still need to perform several on/off procedures during clearance checking with plasitgage and final assembly. Was looking for a brass/bronze/lead hammer...

That's true, but when it comes to new vehicles I don't expect the factory to spin a stock 1970's two-barrel 318 any higher than their performance 383.

I always assumed the 318 two-barrel shift point would have been at least a little lower than 383 four-barrel.

Finally removed the connecting rod caps from the 340 connecting rods after I had a shop install ARP rod bolts and recondition the large end. I noticed right off the bat one nut could not be removed by hand after it had been broken loose with a breaker bar. First tried a different nut but same...

My parents new 1971 383 automatic shifted into second and third at exactly 4,500 RPM at full throttle. At the drag strip I would manually shift at 5,500 rpm. But my question today is: At what engine speed does the factory 904 in the '71-'74 BBody 318 shfit at full throttle? Thank you.

Update: Checked main bearing clearance with plastigage. Unfortunately, in my haste I placed the clay on the bearing and placed the crankshaft on top, then the caps, then torqued the caps. i should have placed the crankshaft first and then put the plastigage on the crank journal, followed by the...

Can anyone determine from this wiring diagram where the choke controller gets its source of current? Can't tell if it's ignition switch, ballast resistor, or somewhere else.

Anyone have a part number or source for such gasket? Thank you.

According to the photo on ebay, this does not have the wire. I believe #1407 has the wire.

Evidently the factory Thermo-Quad equipped 1973 340 (intake manifold casting #3671918) used a thermostatic choke along with an electric wire that attached to a solid state "controller" that assisted in opening the choke a little quicker than from crossover heat alone. Common knowledge/experience...

Back in the 1970's I remember re-torquing the steel shim head gaskets on a 273 build after the first cool down period after breaking in the camshaft. I did not loosen the bolts, only re-torqued them as they were. I read online today that when re-torquing, the bolt should first be backed off a...

From comment section of same video: "According to the service manuals, the 1971 cast crankshaft was two barrel 383 only and most 1971 383 two barrel engines got forged crankshafts anyway. So maybe late 1971 two barrel only, but not common. In 1972 all 4 barrel 400's got steel cranks and all 2...