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I should of bought this car. I could have afforded it. It was for sale shortly after Lou's passing. Last time I saw it it did not have an engine in it. That was at Lou's shop. Not sure if it was for sale with or without an engine.

I have one side for a 67. I think its the driver side but not 100% sure. In case you come across another orphan.

These guys agree with me. https://www.enginebuildermag.com/2012/11/adjusting-hydraulic-lifters-for-proper-preload/

Oh yeah it does. It does for me at least.

I agree. I lightly spin the lifter with one hand and slowly tighten till I feel the least bit resistance then do the 1/2 turn.

She is doing great right now. Thanks!

Yesterday Gemma went for her monthly chemo follow-up. They dressed her up in an Easter outfit. :rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes:

I like challenges like this. I don't have great pictures, but my 65 Cop car was missing most of its Leece Neville alternator brackets. From a picture on the internet and seeing one setup in person, I made most of the brackets. I was able to source one of the idler pulley brackets as it is a...

Just had another thought. I assume the problem is the bolt head is hitting the bracket? If so, what I would probably do is remove the bolt and weld a boss on the back of the bracket, drill a hole in the bracket and put the bolt through the bracket. Would that work?

How much is it hitting it by? Would using a button head screw solve your problem? https://www.mcmaster.com/products/screws/rounded-head-screws-2~/alloy-steel-button-head-hex-drive-screws-8/ If you need a relief cut out, I would be happy to pop it in my cnc mill and do a precision cut for you...

I think with some creativity you can make that setup work.

I don't know if this helps, but this is my setup for my 67 383. Best picture I have.

And what is on the back?

So the factory parts book does not break it out (would be in the build sheet) but in 69 the B bodies either had 10 x 2 1/2 or 11 x 3 in the front. I would remeasure the machined part of the drum and the pads one more time. Maybe someone has more ideas.

A lot of folks don't swedge aftermarket drums. Its not a big deal if you don't. Just retorque your wheels a couple of times after you drive it a little. What is the original engine combo and what is the actual car? Let's figure out what it should be from the factory. I measured one of my...

Yes - measure pad width to make sure its 3". It probably is. It looks aftermarket to me, but I can't swear 100%. Aftermarket in my experience are thicker at the flange. Was it swaged on? If not, its aftermarket.

And not the greatest quality, but you can get new ones pretty easily. Here is one on Rock Auto. I have some on the shelf that I bought new some years ago and turned them to get them true. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,1969,charger,7.0l+426cid+v8,1078950,brake+&+wheel+hub,drum,1744

You sure that is a 3" ? Picture might be deceiving. The pads measure 3" wide? Are you looking for new or used? The one in the picture looks aftermarket so easier to find.

Love the car! My first car was a hand-me-down 1950 Plymouth Special 4 door. Was my dad's first car. I have one set left but they really were not for sale. Been saving them in case I did another project. From a 76 cop car.

AAARRRGGGHHH. I can't get to them. I have at least 5 boxes on the top shelf and still affected by the move so the shelf is boxed in. If you are unsuccessful I can move stuff around to get to them. They are wrapped in black plastic bags so not 100% sure what I got. I know there are c body...