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A bare block is a couple to few hundred dollars depending on location. Then you magnaflux it to check for cracks and hope its good. That is why I say the $600 delivered for the eBay block is not bad because its been cleaned and checked for cracks. In my opinion its not a bad deal.

Forget that $2500 block. The other one is a cleaned up core that supposedly is crack free. If so, its a reasonable deal. But it does say it will need cyl boring and maybe line boring so you need to figure on shop costs for that. 73-75 block - I think that's fine.

I might be willing to part with mine. I had one redone and am about to put it in the car (did the whole interior). Might part with the original one from the car.

PM Me your email and I will take pics and dimensions.

I have a 67. I can help with pics and dimensions if that would be any value.

How good do you need? I have 3, but none are great. One is better than the other 2.

I should of bought this car. I could have afforded it. It was for sale shortly after Lou's passing. Last time I saw it it did not have an engine in it. That was at Lou's shop. Not sure if it was for sale with or without an engine.

I have one side for a 67. I think its the driver side but not 100% sure. In case you come across another orphan.

These guys agree with me. https://www.enginebuildermag.com/2012/11/adjusting-hydraulic-lifters-for-proper-preload/

Oh yeah it does. It does for me at least.

I agree. I lightly spin the lifter with one hand and slowly tighten till I feel the least bit resistance then do the 1/2 turn.

She is doing great right now. Thanks!

Yesterday Gemma went for her monthly chemo follow-up. They dressed her up in an Easter outfit. :rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes:

I like challenges like this. I don't have great pictures, but my 65 Cop car was missing most of its Leece Neville alternator brackets. From a picture on the internet and seeing one setup in person, I made most of the brackets. I was able to source one of the idler pulley brackets as it is a...

Just had another thought. I assume the problem is the bolt head is hitting the bracket? If so, what I would probably do is remove the bolt and weld a boss on the back of the bracket, drill a hole in the bracket and put the bolt through the bracket. Would that work?

How much is it hitting it by? Would using a button head screw solve your problem? https://www.mcmaster.com/products/screws/rounded-head-screws-2~/alloy-steel-button-head-hex-drive-screws-8/ If you need a relief cut out, I would be happy to pop it in my cnc mill and do a precision cut for you...

I think with some creativity you can make that setup work.

I don't know if this helps, but this is my setup for my 67 383. Best picture I have.

And what is on the back?

So the factory parts book does not break it out (would be in the build sheet) but in 69 the B bodies either had 10 x 2 1/2 or 11 x 3 in the front. I would remeasure the machined part of the drum and the pads one more time. Maybe someone has more ideas.