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Make sure the cluster is grounded. It grounds to the dash with the mounting screws, so if testing when removed from the dash need to have a ground jumper wire attached. It's a good idea to just add a ground to the cluster and not rely on the mounting screws.
So I am having trouble diagnosing a sound my car is making while accelerating, it’s a metal rattling sound that happens when there’s more vibration from pushing on the gas.. 1st thought was loose exhaust clamp or heat shield but everything seems tight.. Speedo makes some noise but that’s a...
This is a way above average gauge cluster. Someone turned the odometer back to zero. Presents very well. In dry storage for decades.$400.Keene NH.US Postal money order only
Correct me if I'm wrong, but the Idle Feed Restriction is mostly sized on engine vacuum (needs the pressure differential between bowl and baseplate to push the fuel through the restrictor) where lower engine vacuum needs larger, less restriction, and higher vacuum needs smaller, more...
To some, "sound good" includes an amount of clipping (amp and/or speaker) that they feel and interpret as "sounding good". Typical clipping adds highs and distortion. Nothing wrong with that when one is making a record, etc and its intended. But any listener that adds that outcome for their own...
:thumbsup: You are paying attention.
From my expereience, with the parameters I already mentioned, the smaller amp NEVER sounds better, at the worst(?) it only sounds the same, but that was seldom.
I felt the most likely reason was simply a higher voltage power supply and design, similar to...
@toolmanmike, the 62 to 64 B-Body positive cable that we have reproduced has what I call the 90 degree or flag end. The primary cable is black and the secondary cable is red for this application.
My ‘68 has that reverse switch. I burnt my harness from original harness on trans from headers. Tied in to harness to trunk at the left kick panel, been working for 40+yrs.
...rhythm) but is smooth and consistent. (2) Idle increased every time I bumped the advance, backed it down at the carb each time. I ended up at 29* at idle and 40* at 2500, and 950ish rpm idle. I didn't want to go any further. I've given it more than a few (very short) blips of the throttle...
If you want to pull it I'd be happy to bench test it and repair any cracked traces. I can test gauges basic functions including the tach, but you may want to have the clock and tach converted to modern electronics, etc, by a professional shop.
My dad showed that trick to us kids when I was maybe 8-9 years old.
Dixie cup with a little gas in it, which he proceeded to toss his lit cigarette into.
The cig went out like it had hit water, but you best believe it scared snot outta me. :-)