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Slight movements make a big difference. Sounds like your on the right path.
I did the arm through the steering wheel things way back....don't do that. Lol
I went through a couple of deep sump pans until I finally made a skid plate from the K frame to the scatter shield bell housing. That put an end to that aggravating problem.
I would flush it out before doing anything with the valve. If your cheap like me just use hydraulic fluid.
Remove the return line and blow some fluid through it.
I have no idea what you are saying here.
The things you need to do have been touched upon. You just need to step through them. Open secondaries, doesn’t work, drill t-plates. Then reduce the IFR.
Any idea what cam is in it?
I had similar issues, seems the repo ones are affected easily by magnetic force, mine would sit about 3500 with key off,
I have an after market set of speakers .
I saw somewhere that someone placed a tin shield over the unit, this did drop the needle down a bit.
Also read about adding a...
Intake and exhaust stack still bolted together as pulled(both date codes match). No broken bolts/studs. Heat riser moves freely. Carb is definitely a core/parts carb but it’s complete and not frozen. No kickdown/linkage included.
$350 plus shipping from Woodland CA 95695