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This is NOT my kit.

When the boxes are purchased from Bergman Auto Craft, I include directions and and FAQ page explaining this is normal. The box is too narrow to be lined up exactly without an offset. The coupler is designed to articulate and plunge. The critical thing is the position of the pitman which has...

Anyone with individual concerns read what I wrote above. Here it is again. This is something I've experienced on an off for several years. I started porting out the fluid passages approx 2 years ago. The flare fittings installed in the pressure side specifically, obstruct most of the port in...

Yes. [email protected]

The porting will help. You don't need anything special to take it apart. You can send me the whole box, it would be easier. As far as the stiff steering at idle, thats a pump issue. If you want to pursue this further, email me [email protected]

Its hard to photograph. Look down the pressure port in the center of the brass flare insert. You'll see it. There is no diagram or instructions on a rebuild. Why are you rebuilding, and specifically, what's the issue?

This is something I've experienced on an off for several years. I started porting out the fluid passages approx 2 years ago. The flare fittings installed in the pressure side specifically, obstruct most of the port in the casting. We grind this away to improve fluid flow. I know this has dropped...

Best to contact the source directly. 516-384-6438

The factory box put the centerlink exactly like this as well.

The box is designed this way. Since the shafts internally make the box narrower, you will not get it to align exactly straight. The curved shoes inside the coupler were designed to articulate so no need to change anything.

My t bars allow stock ride height. Add matching shocks and the ride will be excellent. There are a couple variables I’ve seen with motor mounts, center links on backwards.

This is no longer the case as I worked with the manufacturer to change the design.

We have the problem solver boot...

Our roller bearing idler may help you. I have older USA castings as cores. With my design, I can move the idler up and down slightly. Bergman Auto Craft.

Torsion Bars back in stock for B/E bodies. Modern 1.14" diameter, USA made. High quality black powder coat. Comes with Mopar style rubber boots and clips. https://bergmanautocraft.com/product/mopar-b-e-body-torsion-bar-set-1-14/

The stuff I have is all disc. Baer does make a kit for drum spindles.

That could be it. These calipers bolt on from the outside.

Not as far as I know. There is so little demand for big brakes in the mopar market it wasn’t worth it for me. I run these on my A body with an 18x9 for many years now. The only bolt on kit of this size is from Baer that uses their own 6 piston caliper and a 2 piece rotor. Front Pro+ Big Brake...

Once upon a time he made a bracket to use a 14.25” SRT rotor. I made a few at one time too. I’ve bought several sets from X2 Rebuilders.

They are all easy to find and always in excellent condition