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This was definitely a fuel problem. Turns out my "Brand new" Carb decided to take a crap on me just after the warranty expired. Anyway, doesn't matter as I am putting in a freshly rebuilt 318. I am just going to keep this one and rebuild it in my spare time, lord knows it needs it anyway...

Fuel regulator didn't do much. I set it at 5, 5.5, and then 6 psi and it ran best at 6 but it was still worse than when I don't have it on at all. I probably just need a regulator that can go to 7 psi for the best performance, but according to the service manual I should be fine from 5-7 psi...

I haven't changed anything except the fuel pump since this started.

I can't drive it now. Things seem to have changed after I put the new pump on. The longest it runs is for a minute or two and then just dies completely and spits some fuel up out of the carb. It acts like it is flooding because it won't start right back up but if I wait about 20 - 30 minutes...

I am running the pressure gauge off of a tee. The fuel pump is an airtex that is only suppose to be pushing 6-7.5 psi. If it is over coming the carb, that may explain why it is acting the way that it is now, but why was I able to drive for days before the issue surfaced? I'm really starting...

If my fuel pump is only suppose to be running 6 - 7.5 psi, why would it be running higher than that? I put a new one on last night and it was putting out a constant 9.5 psi. Could that be causing my problem? Also, it solved the issue of loosing psi right after cutting off the engine.

Everything fuel related is new. I did find gunk in the fuel pump. Used my warranty and am about to put a new one on. I will let you know what happens. I haven't used the block heater yet, I picked up this car just after winter ended. I doubt I will really use it out here though. Where I am...

Ok, cleaned the cArb out. Didn't find anything out of the ordinary there. I checked the fuel pressure and it holds steady at 8, use to be 10 when I first put the new pump on. Anyway, it does loose pressure immediately when you cut off the engine. Just drops back to zero almost as fast as I...

I will take it to a shop if I need to, but I bought the car as a project. I would like to solve the issue myself. The issue is definately not fuel related. I replaced the gas tank, sender unit, pump, filter, and carb. I checked the pressure as well and it is fine. I will check the battery...

When I first got the car I had the transmission rebuilt. Then I put on a new Carter BBD Carb, replaced the gas tank, fuel filter, fuel pump, plug wires, and plugs. The car drove fine for about two months and then started idling real rough and dying. I checked the point gap at the time and it...

ok ballast resistor is not bypassed. Don't have a dwell meter on hand so I have to wait for someone to come over for that. I just reset the points to .017 (were .016) and it started right up as usual. So i made a video. http://youtu.be/v1tx9d7JeHM This is immediately after a I removed...

I am using the cheap points for certain. One set is the kind that came on the new duralast distributor. The other is just a cheap set of autozone replacements. Doesn't matter which one I use, they all do the same thing. I will have to check the dwell again to be sure. I will be home in an...

Timing was fine, whenever I get it running I set the timing as well. I did not specifically check the Ballast resistor, but I don't think it has been bypassed. I will check it out when I get home. I know I didn't have this issue before the timing chain was replaced. So it is weird that it...

Ok, I have a 1968 Plymouth Belvedere 5.2L stock. I just finished replacing the timing chain on it. I fired it up, it ran smooth for a day then started idling rough and died. Reset the point gap, same thing. Ran great for 2 days (drove around town and everything.) then idled real rough and...

Ok awesome thanks! Do you know where I could find a good diagram online? I have done some searches but I didn't see anything.

For the kickdown linkage at the tranny, should there be any resistance when it is pushed back? Mine has no resistance and I was told that it should.

dsd - No the linkage was hooked up all weird when I got it, but I have set it back in right and adjusted it using the open throttle method. How does the kickdown linkage work on the inside of the trans? Is there a way to adjust it in there? sleepar - not low on fluid, I will pull the pan as...

Do you think it will actually solve the problem though? I don't want to invest the money if I may have to blow a whole paycheck to get the transmission rebuilt.

Recently picked up a 68 Belvedere with a 318 and it runs great except one thing, every time I hit 25 - 30 mph in D it kicks down into passing gear. I have tried adjusting the kickdown linkage using the open throttle method and there was no real change. After I made the adjustment, it did shift...