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I’m not a racer just a shower, 9 out of 10 Mopars I see manifolds. 9 out of 10 General Motors headers, some of the GM are nut and bolt hose clamp OE restorations but still headers I don’t know if it’s a mental thing or their manifolds are really bad. I have manifolds.
After it is blasted what are the steps? Do you prep and permanently prime everything to prevent rust, then remove the primer where you need to do metal work?
Man you guys are brutal, it took 17 posts before anyone even addressed his question. You scare me (and probably others) from asking even a simple question.
Anyone have a frame jig for sale? I have a straight car but need to do some rust repair so it doesn’t need to be for any specific model, I can make my own fixtures. I am located in Vermont, a 12-15 hour road trip is possible, maybe more if the price is right.
Might be interested in a rotisserie...
I read that sometimes people have problems running vacuum advance with timing like we use 12-16 base 34-36 mech advance 48-50 with vacuum because the rotor to cap terminal is out of phase. The factory base of TDC the phase problem would not show up. I bought one of RE reluctors with multiple...
this is a tough one, keep us updated. It would still require lifting the engine for clearance, but I would try an end mill or Blair cutter I’ll try to find a pic. I guess everyone agrees you will have to sacrifice the stud.
Theoretically if the spring is flat and travels any farther, the eye to eye gets shorter the shackle will start to move forward and raise the back of the car although not as much as the reverse arch of the spring lower it.