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Shouldn't be any difference there.
Make sure you don't accidentally have a 4-door piece. There doing be differences in hardtop be fixed post quarter window.
I'm happy to be below average! I'm 48 and my 16 yr old daughter and 13 yr old son love my charger. They also love my 72RR. Less love for my 70 sport fury.
I personally don't want 15amps running through a circuit under the dash. There's just no need. And my switch is placed there for convenience for anytime I want key on power but not engine running. If you drive your car a lot in normal life you'll find that useful.
Put the switch on a relay if the power wire isn't already just a trigger as stated above
A switch accessible to you to easily shut off if you need to sit in the car with accessory power on is very handy. (I've been efi since 2009)
In searching some here I found I missed out on a member who retired that used to rebuild them. In that search there were comments about those kits not really solving the problem?
Mine are pretty worn out, saggy and the indents for partial door open. Do the AMD hinges bolt up and work or do they take a lot of work to align correctly?
Thanks
It sounds like the tci built 727 you have may not really be what you want anymore, I would look for a stock rebuilt unit and sell off the racier one, you'll probably end up money ahead
Maybe goes against convention but copper rtv helps me keep my turbo manifolds sealed up on my 383. I've used on headers as well. Of course try to get them as flush and even as possible.
My point is everything else he needs to make this work is built around supporting those platforms.
I run a 5.0 style TB on a sheet metal elbow on my fury, that allowed me to buy a bbk aftermarket TB very affordablely used for example.