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Note its not the voltage to the coil which is crucial.. But rather increased current... Too high of current to coil will burn it out.. Just my $0.02... :thumbsup:

Yup... Kleening the bulkhead connectors and coating with dia-electric grease is a great idea... But another recommendation is to slightly bend down the sides of the female bulkhead connectoras over time the connector tend to expand making lower, quality connection... Just my $0.02... :thumbsup:

The condenser was originally designed to minimize any static the voltage limiter may generate into the AM radio.. IMHO... Really not needed, so OK to delete.... Just my $0.02... :thumbsup:

Jamie Passon and Wayne Brewer both strongly recommend not to use synthetic lubricant in the Mopar A-833 4-speed. They both recommend to use straight 85W/90W regular GL-4 gear oil, non-synthetic.. If the temperature is warmer, use 140W regular GL-4 gear oil. Just my $0.02.... :thumbsup:

No idea about the C-body recall.. But after building/restoring multiple Mopar muscle cars in the 60/70s I was well aware of some of the electrical system components and their shortcomings.. Just my $0.02... :thumbsup:

OE replacement oil sending units are made in China, and have a wide range of tolerances. Plus the OE guage has a thermal movement mechanism, making it read slower. Just my $0.02... :thumbsup:

One thing I have done... Is to run a 2nd alternator output lead bypassing the bulkhead connectors... This helps to ease its load... Just my $0.02... :thumbsup:

Biggest issue with the bulkhead connectors(0.25" tab) is that their internal contact tension loosens with age... Next due to weakening contact they heat up increasing their resistance and oxidation buildup. As the oxidation builds their connections become poor and corrupted. A good maintance...

Whatever ECU box(old or new) U end up with Orange, Chrome, SMP, MSD.... Double check your timing, each ECU may introduce some latency.. Just my $0.02... :thumbsup:

So that the coil has higher output voltage.. But depends upon the entire ignition system and matched components including ECU and distributor.. Just my $0.02... :thumbsup:

Purchase (2) of these connectors, install (1) on each terminal of ballast resistor. And next make a short cable with female tab connectors and jumper the ballast resistor. Note that this method will retain all of factory wiring, no cutting required so U can return back to the origional OE...

Some may find this link informative... :) 12 Members of Smog Inspection Cheating Ring Indicted

Hey Korn Dog... Thanx for the correction... :D

Looks like some guys don't read the fine print.. The car failed due to high nitrogen/oxide not CO.. :praying: High nitrogen/oxide readings are due to the increase in timing/acceleration, recommend U recheck the basic timing specs and vacumm advance operation.. Just my $0.02... :thumbsup:

Grounding can be a problem... The hood lites are grounded through the hinges and often there is a poor connection due to paint and/or oxidation. I had that issue and simply installed a jumper ground link to the hood. Key point is to make sure U are getting the 12V through existing wires. Also it...

We have installed multiple sets of TTi headers, and for the most part they went in without having to dent any pipes. The one install we had a problem, was a 68GTX, and we found that he had bad motor mounts installing good ones and the headers went rite in... Just my $0.02... :thumbsup:

Some of the previous Holley carburators used a clear plastic window to view the float level... This was a great idea except some carburators used a cheap ABS material that easily cracked under severe heat conditions. I almost had a serious engine fire due to this issue... I did contact Holley...

Many years back... I installed Isky adjustable rockers on my 383 and had to mill down the tabs too get the proper lineup. Just my $0.02...

If U want to keep things stock and use the OE headlights, then the relay kit when wired properly does restore higher voltage to the OE headlights. The factory wiring harness does have about a 1.0V-1.5V loss which will cause the OE headlights to be slightly dimmer. Again as I have posted...

1 thing to keep in mind... LED headlights depend more on current than voltage... So no relay kit is required, also note they draw significantly less current than a halogen or incadescent bulb... Just my $0.02...