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Yep, I did put together a spare. I didn't clean and paint the outside, but I disassembled, cleaned and greased all the internals. The internal parking cam on these gets gummed up with hardened grease. Shoot me a message if you think it's what you need.
I went through this on my 71 RR a couple of years ago. There's some conflicting info out there, but from what I found (after getting a few motors from a few different cars), the 71 is pretty specific to that year. 72 uses a different shaft size where the linkage attaches. The good news is...
Definitely not easy. I did it the first time while also replacing broken exhaust manifold bolts... that was the real nightmare.
The front tires up on ramps give enough access, but everything is tight.
On the upside, it'll probably feel smoother at idle than you can likely remember. Amazing...
I've done them a few times... not the most enjoyable, but there are worse jobs. I unbolt the engine and lift it until there's adequate clearance. I don't really unhook anything else (exhaust, hoses, etc). The first time made me a little nervous lifting it up high enough, but there is enough...
I have that one and use it all the time. Mostly for airing up low tires; if they're flat, I use my large compressor. Truck and larger tires are a stretch, since the manual calls out to only let it run for 10 minutes before letting it cool for another 10. If you need a large volume, the M18...
And that right there is the key. My experience is more in the industrial maintenance world, where we've placed enormous emphasis on oil quality. For many applications, oil is required to be stored indoors in a controlled environment from the time it arrives on-site. Similarly, that brand new...
Guess I got lucky too. I did an engine cradle, rear subframe, and most of the unibody on my son's car. It's holding up great... extremely tough. Also impossible to get off my concrete floor.
All the other stories have me questioning whether to use it on my current project though
I wouldn't be concerned running old oil in my cars.
That being said, oil quality, age, and storage is a BIG deal in industrial reliability programs. Lots of money gets invested in having closed storage (preferably climate controlled), outside of sunlight, and rotating drums to use within a...
As stated above, vacuum reservoir. My '71 A/C car has it as well, although mine is still hooked up. Service manual shows it in the diagrams for vacuum routing for the heater box.
Also as an FYI, there's an inlet and outlet (check valve). If you hook it up backwards, you won't have vacuum to...
Really glad they finally came out. By the time you find a ralleye cluster with a tach, then go through and restore them, you're already looking at decent $$$$ for gauges that aren't exactly accurate.
Way down my priority list though...
IR laser readings on those headers will probably be inaccurate and will definitely vary depending on where you're taking the temp. Emissivity impacts the accuracy of your reading, and shiny/reflective objects are the most difficult to get an accurate reading on. So on your headers, cylinder 2...
Guess I was lucky... I just bought a cheap one from Advance when mine went out on the side of the road and it lasted years until I sold the truck.
Like you said, it's easy to replace. Easiest water pump I've ever dealt with.