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By the way, I welcome any feedback on what you see. I’m fairly new to this and don’t know what I don’t know.

Thanks for the advice everyone. I decided that since this is why I bought a rusty car, I would dive in and patch up the rear. Here are just a few pictures of this project. I will post before and after pictures when I’m completed.

It's a 68 Coronet. I probably don't need the subframe connectors since my current plan is to stroke the 400ci that the car came with) but wanted to play around a bit. And since I never actually drove the car before ripping into it, I won't have a before and after comparison (unless I can...

As many of you know, I bought my 68 Coronet 500 for the express purpose of learning things I didn't know: how to weld, how to fabricate, how to paint, etc. I've learned and enjoyed learning from you, my friends. And now I need your suggestions. I have been working on my roached out tail panel...

Thanks 33 IMP. First, thanks for digging for me. I couldn't figure out how to use the Summit site so I called and got some help. I'll go in and play with wheel size and backspacing to see if there's a style I like. It sounds like an option is to narrow the rearend (or buy a narrowed rearend)...

Okay, I need some advice on wheels and tires and figured I'd add to this thread since that's what we're talking about. I have a 68 Coronet 500 and I mini-tubbed it by moving the inside well 3 1/2 inches closer to the frame rail. I now have 16" of wheel well to play with and want to put some...

I closed up the ends and added a sleeved hole for the emergency brake cable: (I cleaned up the weld after taking the above picture so it looks pretty :) )

Well, that was pretty slick. I watched Birdsong's video and then another one with more specs and built my own. 1) I bought two 1/8" thick 2"x2" steel rectangular tubing 6' long: 2) I created a template to see where to notch the crossmember (the connector is in line with the rear frame; I...

I like what he did here. I might give it a shot. Thanks!

Kern Dog, is there a reason you didn't weld the subframe connectors (and the torque boxes) to the floor pan? And for you and anyone else, after I saw that the Stiffener Kit (which includes subframe connectors and front and rear torque boxes) was $642 on Classic Industries, I'm thinking of making...

That makes a ton of sense! Thanks. My rear was so far gone due to rust that I've had to replace or fabricate most of it. Lots of fun (which I bought a project that most would have walked past).

I bought this trunk floor reinforcement set from Classic Industries a while ago and essentially removed whatever left from my rusted trunk. I know where the reinforcement bar goes, but I don't know what the two smaller pieces are for or where they go. Can anyone help me?

I started under eldubb440's tutelage a couple of years ago and found his advice and pictures invaluable; so THAT'S one thing I suggest you need! Here are things that I've found useful that I wish I had from the beginning: 1. Angle grinders. Get a couple so you don't have to switch the cutting...

Learned something new AND get to buy (and use) a new tool: double win. Thanks for the info, url, and picture. They help a lot. Thanks!

I've been using a three prong puller; that's not right?

I've been trying to remove this pulley from my alternator and it's not budging. All I've been able to do is to bend the inner pulley a bit. Any suggestions? (It DOES come off, right?)

Thanks for your input!,

I’m looking for EXACTLY the look! What is the backspacing? What did you pay? And where did you score these.

Thanks! My main objective was to encourage other newbies to do their own. I had read threads that made me pause and made the process seem more daunting than it really was.

I was going to use zip ties but they didn't add the stiffness my old springs needed. Good luck!