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No experience with it yet but I have this tank with the 340 lph pump ready to go into my 69 super bee with a 600hp 505. Planning to do a mix of -8an and 1/2" hardline for feed/return and I got the Aeromotive dual fuel pressure regulator (13220). They rate the setup for 750hp for NA carb engines.

Looking for a fan shroud (2949130) and the matching brackets/hardware. Will probably just end up buying them new but figured I'd ask if anyone has some they are looking to get rid of.

So I ended up designing some caps and got them from send cut send, .074" mild steel, I made them oversized so I could trim them to fit. After welding up the cracks I fit these up, welded the perimeter and plug welded the 4 holes. Happy with how it turned out, I'm sure it's overkill but now I...

From what I can tell Wilwood just sells 1 MC (bore size varies) and it will work for either disc or drum, it just does not have a residual pressure valve in it.

No I'm installing a 1" bore Wilwood compact master cylinder (no residual valves)

Would the prop valve need to go after the block for the rear line? I know the the block has that valve in it for the brake warning light on the dash, is that its only function or would the pressure differential cause other issues?

In the process of getting my 69 Super Bee back together and decided to upgrade the front brakes. Engine is currently out so trying to get everything sorted while I have the added room to work. I think I have it figured out but wanting to have my plan looked over. Old setup - 4 wheel 11" drum...

Stupid question - can anyone tell me if the bushings in the QA1 upper controls arms are supposed to move with the arm or does the arm move around them?

I was able to get my non ac heater box out and back in with the dash in, removing the glove box helped a lot.

Do you have a preferred brand for lower ball joints and tie rod ends?

Going through replacing the LCA bushing on my super bee and bought both Moog (K791 $10.21) and Proforged (115-10015 $14.44) Open to any positive or negative experience with either, however it's probably splitting hairs and either one would work fine. Proforged is made is Taiwan, Moog is made in...

I was thinking about this too, I may try TIG welding it first but I have a feeling not being able to clean the back side is going to produce poor results. Have a MIG machine as well if that doesn't work.

Found some cracks in the front frame rails when I pulled the k frame off, they are both around the rear mount holes for the K frame. I saw another thread with some cracks in the same location but they looked quite a bit worse than mine, everyone in that thread was saying replace the rail(s)...

Sorry, I should have been more clear, the engine has been broken in already on a dyno. I just want to ensure the starter engages the flywheel correctly. I only plan to crank it over, not actually run the engine. But based off gkent's post it doesnt sound like I have anything to worry about.

Going to be putting the engine in from the bottom via a k-frame cart but I would like to crank the engine over before hand with the lakewood bellhousing and new flywheel, if theres any issues Id rather deal with them before its in the car. Just want to make sure theres not some reason to not do...

Here are pics of the underside and of some numbers (is that the manufacture date?)

I bought this k frame and was told it was off a 69 or 70 b body but it has some brackets behind the motor mounts that are not on any other k frame of that era I have seen, just looking for any insight anyone has. 2nd and 3rd photos show the brackets I'm talking about.

It looks like the listing on marketplace has been changed but when that car was originally posted it was listed as a Super Bee clone. No rallye dash is a giveaway though. I don't recall the name of the seller originally, so its possible someone bought this and already relisted for sale. 1969...

I always thought there was 2 versions 440/super bee and 500/R/T. Seems like that 4 door had the trim removed and holes covered? All other 4 doors I'm seeing online have the trim. And I thought I recall reading the 2 bulb vs 3 bulb thing was part of a light package option, but I may be wrong.

Location is San Diego, CA, price is $200 plus shipping Most of the pieces are there, the trim has a piece that was glued back in. Great candidate for restoration or assemble as is? I can email more photos if interested.