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Hello, looking for some help in identifying an issue which arose out of nowhere with my clutch and/or transmission. Vehicle is a stock 1970 Charger R/T with a 4 speed. I am able to shift vehicle into first and reverse gear normally, but occasionally, after releasing the pedal, and the car is...

Thanks to all who took the time to convey their knowledge and troubleshooting ideas. At this point, I'm going to take it apart and check everything over again, especially with respect to clear passages, proper gaskets and power valve condition. in the end, might end up purchasing a new...

I replaced the gasket I removed from between the rear fuel bowl and the body of the carb with a matching new gasket. It had the metal plate, but it did not have the steel thin shim.

Yes, you are correct. It is a vacuum secondary. I am somewhat of a novice, and used the wrong terminology. Which gasket exactly are you describing? The one between the metering block and the main body of the carb?

what do you use to remove the bleeds?

Do you have to remove the small set screws in the air bleed holes? There are 4 on either side of the carb, and the outside ones appear to have set screws with larger internal passages, whereas the inner ones have set screws with very small passages. Carb cleaner goes freely through the air bleed...

OK, will do.

No, I did not specifically ensure that the idle air bleed holes were not clogged or blocked. I will try to do that. What is the best way to do so? Spray carb cleaner through them, or run a thin wire through the channel. Holley does not recommend the wire route, as they say it could damage the...

Not entirely certain the problem is only with the idle circuit per se. The main issue is the bluish exhaust and the fouling of the plugs - conditions I am attributing to a rich fuel condition. As an aside, what test could be performed of the carburetor to ensure it is functioning properly...

Logically, I believe you are correct. Just gotta figure out where I went wrong. I know my initial setup after the rebuild was incorrect with respect to fuel bowl levels and idle screw position, and my plugs got really fouled, experienced backfires, rough idle and it got to the point where the...

Thank you for this information. I greatly appreciate your help and your technical tip.

Would you then be recommending replacing the PV as Dave6T4 suggests is necessary

I did the rebuild. I compared the gaskets received in the Holley rebuild kit to the gaskets removed, and they were the same. This carburetor has been in my vehicle for more than 25-30 years, and it ran just fine. What would you recommend? I am thinking of purchasing a new one if I cannot get...

Sorry, did not see this message. I took out a 6.5 and the same went in. It is my understanding that you can check the status of the power valve by turning the idle mixture screws all the way in while the engine is running. If it stalls, the power valve is good. I did this, and the engine would...

Thank you RussT for the information. I am up in Canada, but I'll use your forwarded info to aid in choosing the correct one. I believe I currently have a 6.5

With the power valve being damaged, does that mean that more fuel is being allowed through the carb? I guess I will replace it and see how the change affects the running condition. Thank you.

Thank you for your input. Hopefully by resolving the fuel issue, which I am attributing to being the cause of fouled plugs and blue smelly gas-like exhaust, I will be able to assess the possibility of burning oil. At one point, I was no longer able to start the car because the plugs were so...

To AR67GTX, here is the Holley kit I used. 37-754

Yes, the two round flat head jets are in (one on each side of power valve). I didn't replace them, used the same ones that were in the carb prior to the rebuild. Would changing the dual feed fuel line have any effect on the volume of fuel getting into the engine? I imagine the carburetor is a...

Thank you for revealing this possibility. I will check that. I used a Holley kit.