Search results for query: *

Should I route it so it goes through a stand-a-lone trans cooler and then into the lower rad or get rid of the lower rad routing altogether and leave it with a dedicated cooler strapped in front of the rad?

Thank you! I was very impressed (albeit nervous as all get out towing a boat… even if it’s “light”)… wasn’t expecting to fly up a mountain but was wondering if fuel delivery would improve the struggle… sounds like for the most part, I should stick with what is on it As for the manual switch...

Thanks for all of your comments everyone… I guess I posed the question for the simple fact that this is a stock setup carb/engine application for a B200 van… not a Moho, so I was curious if there was a better application for the needs… Overall, this thing sings at 55mph on the flat at around...

Hi everyone, So I’ve had two very successful camping trips with this B200 you have all been helping me out with… even hauled a boat with no problems! The only thing it didn’t like was idling in a grid lock… got pretty close to the upper side of OK temp wise… might install an electric pusher fan...

Good to know about the Chevy canister… any particular model?

Thanks for the response it’s a 1972 b200… the carb came with an autolite (reman carter bbd). Looks like a standard cork/rubber gasket underneath sandwiched between the intake and carb. Do you have any recommendations or links where I could pick up something different? The canister and all its...

Well… I finished a successful 8 day trip up and down beautiful Vancouver island and camped in Tofino. The 318 performed marvelously up and down some pretty large summits (fully loaded Moho)… staying within the prescribed temp ranges on the gauge and not overheating. I averaged 55mph at around...

I was thinking this too… shop manual says 15.03 is ok but I need to test it with the ballast resistor and not battery directly. If it fails that test, would this suggest my voltage regulator is hooped or somethings wrong with the alternator. I’ll take a look at the starter @kiwigtx, I certainly...

Just picked up a used battery, 4 months old and tested for cheap. Fired right up on the first crank. Voltmeter says 14.9-15.03 when running. Hopefully this helps others. Solid charge and volts but zero amp, thanks everyone (and @ruffcut) let’s hope I don’t have a parasitic draw somewhere lol ugggh

Ok, I’ll see if some metal sticks. Does it have to be running for this to be magnetized? (Honest question)

lol sorry, I know yall are screaming it’s the battery and I appreciate it! I hooked up the multimeter and watched it go from 13.56 to 4.56 when I turned the ignition

I replaced all the battery cables and cleaned up every connection when I bought it. Like I said, it started up like a hot damn every time until today where it turned over VERY SLOW and then died. I threw on the charger and it read 90%. After some time, I tried the key, (and the charger...

Appreciate it. When I put a voltmeter to it, it reads 13.56 but won’t even engage the solenoid. Only jump starting will get it going. After an expensive tow home, I’ve jump started it again and it’s reading 14.82 on the voltmeter… its seems to be charging… but not enough ccs to start it on its...

vehicle is new to me… I think it’s date stamped 2020… just sputtered and died. Not even the solenoid would click. Barely enough for the hazards to flash. I’m hoping it’s just the battery and my fog light wiring killed a tired battery

Well, this is a new one… my new moho has been starting just fine until today. 318 only clicked and then nothing… battery showed full on the charger. Boosted it with my truck and it fired up after. Drove around a bit to charge the the motorhome (which is what I thought it needed) made the...

Well, -I adjusted the point gap to .018, bent it back so they touched square. -re-gapped the spark plugs to .35… some were as far as .45 but nice and clean -re-oiled by evap canister -dialed back the timing to shop manual spec (roughly 2.5 +-) -returned the arm of the accelrator pump back...

Never mind, bent them back and gapped to .018… sure lit off a lot quicker… on to the plug gaps hope everyone’s enjoying their Saturday PS: what is the name of this spring and where can I get a proper one?

These points don’t look great… should the two points that meet and seperate be lined up?

Appreciate it… Here’s the plan today: -check the gap on my points and adjust if nexessary -check the gap on my plugs as that’s the last thing I haven’t checked (just house keeping really) -return the accelerator pump to the factory hole -warm it up and reset timing to book spec See what happens.

I’m a bit confused as to which system I have as I have a ballast resister in the front, points and a condenser. I also seem to have that chrome box with the two plugs. Already flushed the coolant when I picked it up and replaced the tstat with a 180 few weeks ago… runs 175 on the gauge all day...