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Yeah, just looked over at my 383 and it has threaded bosses built into an extra casting on the block that this 440 just does not have. Without the extra casting with bosses, not sure what I would drill into without actually penetrating the block itself. The power steering pump on the '73 and...

'73 Road Runner. Originally a 400 with A/C and P/S. Now has a 1970 440 and no A/C. It has the '73+ water pump housing. Need a pic of the P/S bracket setup for a Federal pump; specifically, what the rear mounts to (the water pump housing, the block, something else?) I don't know if I even have...

Correction: Temperature Operated By-Pass Valve, not "OSAC valve."

Hey 65-440! Good stuff... I realize this is an old post, but curious. In looking at the extended length of those MP Drag Racing shocks (MOPP4529514), they have more or less the same extended length as a stock B-body rear shock (~22.5 inches). While I'm sure they will bolt on, they are meant for...

Did I miss something?

Agree and true, but the new ones do have 15x10 with 5.5 backspacing available going for it, if that's your thing that is. Or just narrow the rear end and get some 15x10 3.5 backspacing stockers and that will give a very cool deep-dish look is another route, I suppose.

Were you able to get the backspace you needed with the old-style wheels? Aren't they like 3.5 or something?

Yup! Found under "Lower Control Arm Pivot Hardware Set 1966-74 A/B/E-Body". Thanks! Never heard of this site. Reminds me of the old R/T Specialties.

I was recently googling for the same thing (had to search for "rallye" instead of "rally" to get something relevant to pop up, and it was a 15x10 w/ 5.5" b.s. in 5x4.0 lug pattern at the JEGs site. They must have stopped making them, as I would think the 5x4 lug pattern would be even less demand...

1962-72 B-Body or 1970-74 E-Body LCA pivot shaft pin nut and washer wanted. OEM type preferred. Need the pair. I don't need the pivot pins, JUST the nuts/washers.

May I also recommend the Factory Body / Chassis Service Manual? Had to use it to piece together a shell of a vehicle in pieces to which I had no idea where things bolted. It's a great addition to the normal FSM.

Okay, I think I'm just going to rebuild the 1975 AVS and see how it runs. Thanks. Won't miss $50, and if I do, I'll just sell it.

Excellent info. So just the bowl vent on the later AVS is the difference? If that's it, I'll probably just plug it and run it after rebuild. Oh, the cam is the "hemi grind" purple shaft cam, I believe it was the .484/108 LSA one, but that's just from memory. It's been a good 10 years since it...

It does have "CARTER AVS" and "MADE IN USA" stamped on the carburetor body.

It's a 1970 model, not 1971, but yes, I see that it was supposed to have a Holley R4736 now, but also read that some Holleys were getting replaced with the Carter AVS due to the Holleys leaking/causing fires, and just wanted to be sure. Thank you for the info. Now the question is, is there a...

It's a Lynch Road made 383, 4-speed, N96, non-A/C car.

So if my Carter AVS is stamped "6125 S" on it (not "SA") I understand it was one installed on the assembly line and not a factory replacement (otherwise it would have "SA"). Okay, cool. But just before "6125 S" is the code "H5" stamped next to it, indicating August 1975, I think. Also, the...

dadsbee, You are awesome! Yeah, it was hard to tell because a used one I saw on ebay had a star washer, but the new ones don't seem to offer it, so didn't know if it was correct. When I got my '70 Bee, no brake lines or anything, so your pictures definitely help with everything else. Just tells...

Does this 8 3/4 (742 housing) rear axle vent bolt need anything, or is it just one piece? I guess what I'm asking is, is it supposed to have a top cap on it, or a lock washer below it, etc., or can I just clean it up (aka sandblast it with walnut shells, black oxide it, etc.), throw the brake...

Wow, 19bee70, thank you for the extra pictures. Right now, it's just a little overwhelming because there's new quarter skins on both sides, yet the wheel wells are rusted out and the trunk hinge on one side is separating, etc. Also, not sure if he sandblasted the subframe rails before welding...