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Slide a tight fitting 12 point box end wrench over the end of the cable. Pull the cable sideways at a slight angle while wiggling the wrench and it'll slip right out. Doug

There is and outer sleeve, rubber, and inner sleeve. Nothing else. Doug

One other thought. Post #1 says "wheel bearings". Were they were replaced? Were the inner bearings and races the same thickness? If they were thinner for some reason? Then the hub would set further inboard alowing the drum to set further into the backing plate and shoes. Doug

So what happens with no shoes installed? Doug

Take the shoes off. Bolt the drum back on and tighten it up. Does it spin freely? If so you have shoe/drum interference. If not I'd look real hard at the grooved area of the drum where the raised edge of the backing plate sets in the drum groove. Have had more than a few with a rough area in the...

If it locks up with either the old or new drums the issue is the shoes, installation, or hardware. Old hardware or new? Lets see a picture with the drums off. Front only? Rear only? All 4? Doug

Depending on suspension, the rear housing usually moves rearward as the car is lowered to ride height. My race car runs that same cover. No girdle. Car runs 1.2x 60ft. it's been run over 1000 passes over 11years. The housing is still straight. Doug

I've never had one break apart. I did have some Moog units wear on my old Caravan. The racecar is going on year 12 with them. 1000's of wheel stands. They are still in great shape. Doug

Looks like someone modified it for the later 2 bolt master cylinder. Doug

Test fit the shoes in the housing. On all the stuff I've done the the wider portion of the shoe goes 90 degrees to the shaft centerline. Doug

I use them on my racecar. There are two differences between the front and rear. The front rotors are thicker and vented vs solid in the rear. There is a spacer between the caliper halves to make up the difference. I've stopped easily from 148 mph with no issues at Dragway 42, KilKare and London...

Bolt the fits in the sleeve But does not stick all the way thru. Flat washer nder the head of the bolt to allow press on the sleeve and the bushing at the same time. Doug

Make sure you have lube on the bushing. I'd use a short bolt with a wide flat washerto guise the bushing as well. Doug

Loosen the nuts holding the master cylinder to the booster. Do the brakes release? If yes. It's possible the booster pushrod is bottomed out in the master. Doug

if there isn't enough clearance at the booster push rod. Fab up a spacer that goes between the master and booster. Doug

Obiviously I typed on the wrong page. lol Doug

If anybody would know it would be Joel from Joels on Joy. He knows more about valve bodies than anyone on the planet. Doug

I have hit the pad tabs with a hammer for years. Hold the pad vertical and whack them. It's amazing how far you have to move them. Get them bent enought so you have to "snap" the pad onto the caliper. Doug

I've done a bunch of theses. There is no way a second sleeve will press in with the old sleeve still in place. Those are only 3 months old? They certainly don't look new to me. Looks like they were never replaced. Doug

As a young mechanic years ago this was a common practice. There were still many drum brake cars as daily drivers. Rebuilds were part of a brake job. No way we took them off to rebuild. I've done many on the car. The leaks are almost always caused by crud an rust in the bore. This causes wear...