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Laquer thinner and a litle 100 grit sandpaper. Fluid doesn't soak very deep into the shoe material. Doug

I've used all the methods mentioned here. The hammer method in post #9 is the fastest and easiest with no chance of damage. Doug

I made the 8 1/4" to 8 3/4" F body swap years ago. Still own the car today. I used a 68 B body housing and stock axles. The factory backing plates and drums from the 8 1/4" The overall width was 3/4" wider. The spring isolator system was replaced with stock 68 B body stuff. The center to center...

Something is moving. Either a worn part. Or a loose part. A cracked (or rusted part. Or a rusted out area.Prime wear parts; upper control arm, lower control arm , or strut rod bushings, lower ball joints, idler arm. Prime broken areas; K frame where the lower control arm stud passes through. If...

I've had success building up weld on bolts that are deep. Add weld to the center and make it look like a christmas tree. Once you have a good mound then weld the nut on it. Doug

You need to account for; Rotor or drum thickness. Along with axle shaft offset between the housing and flange. Also note that many cars 1/4 panels are not the exact same distance from the leaf spring on both sides. This causes one tire to be closer than the other to the lip. Easily remedied by...

If the inner cable moves smoothly the out case can be repaired. Slide #4 marine style heat shrink tubing over the bad area. Heat it up and shrink it. Done a bunch of them. Do the crimp at the bottom as well to prevent seepage through the cable casing. Doug

For normal service the drum shouldn't be removed from the hub. If it was, it should be replaced. Especially if the swedges were not cut. It's now more than likely bent. The studs should be replaced as well. Doug

Swedges are easy to cut. Get an 11/16" hole saw. Remove the center drill bit. The stud will guide the hole saw. Only need to cut about .060" deep. Cut around all five studs and the drum will come off without damaging the hub, Doug

Easier to weld from the top. Doug

I'm assuming you are asking about the frame connectors. 2×3" tubing. Iused 1/8" but .090" wall would be plenty. Theses are the only pics I have on my phone. Doug

The inner plate sets on the bearing. No need for the outer plate. But it's just double stacked. That wouldn't keep the axle from setting deep enough. I used an early B body tapered axle housing with standard flange axles long ago. The housing wasn't bored deep enough to allow the axle to fully...

Very common problem in Michigan. Sleeves rusted to bolts. As a mechanic in Michigan i learned early on. Had to torch them off. Of course the rubber would catch on fire. It was an awful job. Especially Fords with the shock right next to the fuel tank. Had the cams seized in the upper bushings as...

Lee, I have the pictured puller. Doug

Tighten it up. It'll loosen with use. Done many of them. Doug

I've used a couple of hese kits. Reasonably priced. Everything fits, All the parts are included. They also have kits with a power brake booster and master cylinder. 1967 PLYMOUTH GTX Classic Performance 6374SWBK-S Classic Performance 1963-74 Mopar Disc Brake Kits | Summit Racing 1967 PLYMOUTH...

Many opinions. I will give my 2 cents. Background; Worked in auto repair 48 years. Spent 27 years at dealerships. My main line there was suspension. Been in the Mopar hobby since 1974 as well. Not that it can't happen, but the only broken torsion bars I've ever seen were on 4wd Astro vans. Never...

Who has an actual early Mopar that has used Moog ball joints or bushings that has failed? I have not. Doug

Lay the pivot flat on a solid surface. Then beat on the sleeve with a hammer while rotating the pivot. It will expand the sleeve. Then just take a chisel and tap it off. Doug

What does the mounting flange of the Borgensen box look like compared to a stock box? It must have different mounting pad heights. Doug