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I thought it had something to do with a crank from Ford's Y block. :)

If it was worked on just a few months ago, I'd take the car back and tell them it stopped working and let them deal with it.

I've used this a couple of times, it worked well and showed no bad effects later. Once was on a GM 3.4 v6 that would have meant stripping everything down to the timing chain cover and once was a neon head gasket. The fix seemed permanent.

Both my radiator and heater were brass tubes. (1970)

While copper is a superior heat conductor, I don't think there have been any copper radiators installed in cars since the 1930s. Our musclecars had brass rads, and brass doesn't conduct heat as well as either copper or aluminum.

Putting a fan on backward won't change the direction of the air movement. It will still pull, it just won't have the blades oriented in quite as efficient curvature.

You are correct. In 1900, 22% of cars were gasoline powered, 38% were electric, but the largest percentage was steam at 40%. Electric car sales didn't peak until 1910. Electric taxis were particularly popular.

Well, all electric motors are. :) Motor definition: Cambridge dictionary: a device that changes electricity or fuel into movement and makes a machine work: Merriam-Webster: any of various power units that develop energy or impart motion: such as. a. : a small compact engine. b. : internal...

The stock fan sucks through the radiator, blowing towards the engine.

Turbocharger after-coolers work extremely quickly, a radiator doesn't care what speed the fluid inside is moving. If it is hotter than the outside air, it will transfer heat. A slow moving coolant in a radiator means that by the time it leaves the cooling fins at the other end it is already...

I think you're right and they would be close in flow. The pulley change was likely to increase fan speed for the A/C condenser, the different pump put the coolant flow back to where it was meant to be.

It's hard to tell which would be better. Standard engines usually had the eight vane pump while A/C engines had the six vane pump but with a different pulley so it spun faster.

Do you have an infrared digital thermometer? Maybe check for cold spots on the rad while it's running hot to make sure that there aren't any blocked areas.

Well then, I would use that second option.

It would be better to stay at 180 and have the fan turn off at 185. At cruising speed the fan might not need to run at all.

If your fan is set to turn off at 175, it may always be running with a 180 thermostat.

That depends on what temperature you want the block to stay at.

Whether or not there were harmful effects from R12, Dupont fought tooth and nail against banning chlorofluorocarbons, even taking out newspaper ads declaring that there was no danger. Until the patent ran out. Then they abruptly declared that science showed that chlorofluorocarbons were...

I agree, those higher temperatures are the path to detonation. However, 68 sport Satellite was asking about a hot engine at idle, a less stressful condition.

Depends on your setup. If you have a 50/50 water and coolant mix, 250 won't even be at the boiling point with a 10 pound rad cap.