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It makes more power @ 38 with good fuel, but I can't always run good fuel.

20 initial/36 total all in @ 2500 and no vacuum advance.

I had intermittent no spark years ago and it turned out to be an internal break in a wire on the pickup coil. I found it by connecting an ohm meter to the leads on the pickup coil and flexing the wires.

SW’s website lists the ohm values for senders in their troubleshooting section. I think Sixpactogo nailed it…

You are not alone…

If you can find someone with an old Sun distributor machine you could have them test it out of the car. Isolating it that way will tell you if it’s the distributor or something with the engine. Too much end play or sloppy bushings in the distributor will cause timing variations, so will worn or...

I like MOROSO wires, the boots hold really securely and they stand up to the heat coming off the headers…

The ignition switch in the GTX had high resistance in the run position, it still ran but had a high rpm misfire and an overcharging condition. After replacing the switch I disassembled the old one and found the lube inside was like tar. I found the same thing when my hazard light switch was...

Videos are not working for me

As Geoff pointed out, in the video it sounds like it’s firing when the ignition switch goes from crank to the run position. An easy check would be to run a jumper wire from the battery to the coil + terminal and see if it fires up while cranking. Even better, if you have a voltmeter check...

If the front turn signals function correctly it’s probably safe to assume that the grounding is good. I would start by unplugging the 2 pin connectors at the lights and checking for voltage at the female side of the plug on the forward lighting harness. If no power is present, check for voltage...

I purchased a mini starter from a local rebuilder, 20+ years and still running strong…

It’s easier to connect to the relay on the firewall, not the solenoid on the starter.

Good to hear that you got it fixed. When I swapped to a 6AL I gutted the ballast resistor and soldered a length of wire in place of the resistor to provide full voltage in the crank and run position.

I bet most mass produced cables have cast ends. Crimp on cable ends are usually made of harder material.

Thanks for coming back and sharing the solution, that way others can learn from your experience.

Continuity with an ohm meter is no assurance that your cable is capable of handling the current while cranking.

I would suggest an 8 gauge firewall ground to the head or block for good measure. Aluminum is a good conductor so if the aluminum heads have the same extra bolt hole at the rear of right head that factory iron heads do, that’s as good a place as any. Good grounding can prevent a multitude af...

Not really period correct for a muscle car, but you do you…

I used plug wire looms from a mid 90’s Ram 360. They slide over and lock securely on a 1/4” stud and can be found in 2, 3 and 4 wire configurations. Up front I use the factory retainers…