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I've hurt one but it didn't grenade. It was a 440 and it only got hurt a bit......got lucky but I don't believe in luck. Sold a 56 Chevy back in 70 and the guy blew it up and wanted me to pay him back and well, I just laughed. Many years later I sold a jet boat that had a 454 in it and it too...

Have someone that wants me to narrow a 66-67 B body housing (his) to 'A' body width and says to leave the spring perches where they are since he's telling me that there's room to remove 1" from both sides. I need to check the differences in the perches as there isn't a whole lot of room between...

Btw, a cap screw is what the stock main cap 'bolts' are. Same with head bolts. Question is, is the load applied different with a stud vs a bolt uh cap screw and if so, where and how. I know the studs are usually stronger than a grade 8 cap screw screw but in my experiences, it's the nut that...

Everything looks to be pretty dang nice.....

I did a little bit of research on it and it looks like there are some people who have done it.... I'm not planning on doing it but a guy bought a 590 lift cam from me today and did not want to buy the lifters that I had and said he's thinking about running hydraulics.

The case was clean when I got it several months ago and didn't like seeing it starting to rust and didn't have any clear....so, it's now black. Also found several clutch forks and linkage rods etc today after looking in the right places. But I'm betting I still don't have the right parts lol...

Going to do it to my 95....not hauling anything heavy in it anymore so why not and have some fun. Was thinking about pulling the axles and dropping the carrier out and doing it on a bench after laying protective wrap on the ring gear etc but thinking since it's never been apart (never had an oil...

I assume the 'slot' on the transmission side points downward? Also assume no gasket goes on it....? Edit, never mind on the slot, I see how it goes :D

Lost my machine shop radial arm drill press for doing this but a buddy is saying he can do them himself with a 'unibit'.....and I laughed. Is this plausible? I've use unibits before but they sure don't look plausible to me to do that kind of work.

Looking for some info about the installation of one behind an 833. Downfalls vs upside etc. Not really wanting to modify the floor either.....

This is on my 95 Beater Dakota. 1st and 2nd feel ok and just 3rd and running about 25-30 mph I noticed it felt like something was tugging at it and slowing it down....like a small trailer with flat spotted tires but loading up the truck. First thought was the low/reverse band is was trying to...

The coast side looks good? but the drive side looks a bit too deep?? When I first started setting up gears I bought a pinion depth tool/indicator and even when I got the depth set right according to the setting tool, the pattern just never looked right to me. But when I stuck a newly set up 3rd...

the right and put on the left to get .006-.010"BL?

How wide is too much and needs to be welded up? What should the minimum/maximum widths is what I'm trying to find out....?

What would cause the cross shafts to break? Never seen this happen before. The rest of the unit looks ok short of normal wear....

@Lefty71 posted a link to a question I had on t-stat housings that I thought were pretty informative and would like to share the info.....this is from https://moparforums.com/forums/f79/thermostat-housing-information-11404/ Thanks Lefty71! I would like to share some of the information I found...

Been so freaking long since working on a small block that I freaking can't remember....plus Oldtimes is working it's way in too I guess.....plus it has been a long long time since even having a small block in the shop.

And have them actually run quiet? The thought crossed my pea brain when I pulled a 3.55 pinion out of a chunk that had the diff missing. Probably had a SG and someone pirated it for another gear ratio. The original ring is long gone.....

Or is there a site that I can 'learnt' from? Would like to slam in some 3.90 gears or even 4.30's in my beater 95 Dakota V6 since I can't find a V8 truck. Wouldn't mind doing the 96 too since it acts like it's even slower. Is it correct that these are pretty much a wham bam thank you mam gear...

Seems finding Dana 60 shaft shims is a thing of the past but got to thinking, is it better to install them under the cup in the housing instead of under the cone on the shaft? If it's better to go under the cup, I'll knock it back out but have never had any issues installing them under the cone...