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Stock 383 and automatic transmission in my 1969 Bee. Starts fine and drives ok for a few hundred feet then runs a bit ruff with lower power even when giving it more gas. Possible carburetor out of adjustment?

The upper rope seal on my 383 is really stuck up in there. Even with a small corkscrew like Sneaky Pete it rips out and won’t budge. Would loosening these bolts a bit help? Thanks

Took off the end cap to replace the rear main seal and one bolt in particular was rusty and corroded. I am a bit concerned as to why this occurred and not sure if it may be from normal age or not. Any ideas why it was like this?

Got the rear main seal end cap out. Had rope seal in there. The valley where the seal sits seems a bit large. Will my new seal work? Is this an aftermarket end cap? Finally what is the best way to remove the upper rope seal still up inside the block?

Well this weekend is my first time changing a rear main seal ever. Engine still in the car. Seen some videos but they cover Ford and Chevy. I know to install the side with the lip towards the front of the engine and to have each half a bit off center. I just am not sure about the side seal...

Dropped my transmission pan to change the oil and filter. Found little chunks of plastic at the bottom. Took out the speedometer gear and several teeth were missing. Any idea what could have caused this so my new one won’t suffer the same fate?

Just got a 1969 Superbee and went to change the transmission fluid/filter. At the bottom of the pan I saw little plastic parts then noticed part of the plastic piece that presses against the NSS broken off. Can this part be replaced and should I even bother if still presses how it should?