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Charging seems to be okay, but when running there is a “red low” behind VR. I don’t run it long, and red glow is almost instant. I don’t remember a led there. 1968 Charger, 383

1968 Charger. Replace points with electronics. Replaced alternator. Checked connections. Ballast resistor read 0.3 on multimeter. But I keep burning voltage regulators. Why?

I have a reverse light that keeps blowing bulbs. Eye balling the socket and things seem okay. Put a new bulb in, and first time it gets actuated, it blows? Suggestions?

That is what got me yesterday. I tried to start my '68 Charger. It spun over once, so I turned off the key and tried it again. Nothing, even though I could see the voltage draw on the gauge. Checked wires to battery - tight. Checked wires to starter relay - tight where they bolted on. Checked...

Currently inop. I did light test (from horn wire connector to ground) and light comes on when horn button is pushed. So thinking that the horns were inop, bought new horns (5 amp). Same problem as old horns. I can hear the relay "click", but no sound. I followed steps as outlined in manual, and...

My '68 charger has had a problem with engine missing at 35 mph and backfire when accelerating. Points are adjusted correctly and timing is correct. Plugs and wires test good. Could my problem be that the coil is in early signs of breaking down?

I am installing electric headlight door actuators. I finally got some time to work them in. I'm tapping off the low beam light wire to supply power to "open", and running a wire to the start block terminal for power to "close". I would like to put an in-line fuse in the wire to the start...

I am installing electronic actuators for head light doors on '68 Charger. It has three wires for connecting. Return Dimmer switch and third is for a "constant" power. I can do return (ground), and can tap the wire to the dimmer switch (provides power to open doors), but what is a good place to...