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1 wire alternator swap

JackBEEQuick

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hey guys, im replacing my failed stock alternator on my 69 Coronet, I have a new 1 wire Powermaster and Im looking for some guidance on what to do with the wires from my old one, (one green, two blue on same terminal, and the ground.) Im going to run a 4awg wire to my starter lug that shares the + battery cable, and reuse the ground cable? . Would I just be bypassing and/or removing those green and blue wires ? is it really that simple? feels like a trap lol thanks guys

alternator.jpg
 
sorry guys I prematurely posted like a jackass, I found my info on Powermasters FAQ , but instead of removing my post it ill post my findings for others just in case.
"
How do I hookup a one wire alternator if my stock alternator was an externally regulated alternator? What do I do with the regulator and wiring harness?

The only thing required to electronically hookup a one wire alternator is to run a charge wire from the battery terminal on the alternator to the positive terminal on the battery (or any positive battery source). The external regulator can be either totally removed from the firewall or left in place. If left in place, be sure to disconnect the wiring harness from the regulator. The wiring harness has to be disconnected from the regulator or the indicator light on the dash will remain on. NOTE: If the vehicle is equipped with an indicator light, the light will no longer be operative. Please see the following question."

FAQ-Alternators

I still have a question about the ground cable and ammeter though, it doesnt say the ground cable needs to be altered but in my own opinion it wouldn't hurt to just run a heavier grounding cable? as for the ammeter/alternator gauge will that just no longer function or what wire monitors that? If anyone has experience with these Powermasters I would greatly appreciate your input, thanks
 
ok thanks pnora, spose the stock alternators maybe were not grounded from the factory, I think it would be good to add one though, the alternator has many open mounting holes, perhaps ill ground it myself. is the wire im referring to my ammeter cable ?
 
ok thanks pnora, spose the stock alternators maybe were not grounded from the factory, I think it would be good to add one though, the alternator has many open mounting holes, perhaps ill ground it myself. is the wire im referring to my ammeter cable ?
The Black wire going to the ammeter also is not a ground wire.
 
You don't need any ground wires to the alternator.
 
Powermaster does like you to ground the alt. And in fact provides a lug on the case for this purpose. Or at least the one in my car wants one. With all the metal to metal contacts on the mounting bolts it may be overkill though
 
How much more ground do you need than bolted to the engine block?
They're Irish .... the need to be sure to be sure. :lol:

The Powermaster does need a ground wire...although how much more benefit it provides I cannot say.

It says to do it, so ......
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Do it.jpg
 
all good points guys thnaks. but the black wire with the ring terminal is indeed what I want to keep connected to the new Powermaster in order to use the ammeter gauge correct? sorry, i don't have the project in front of me to look closer. Im just at work thinking about cars..
 
Run a #10 wire from the alternator ground lug and bury the other end in a coffee can full of dirt. :lol:
 
Powermaster does like you to ground the alt. And in fact provides a lug on the case for this purpose. Or at least the one in my car wants one. With all the metal to metal contacts on the mounting bolts it may be overkill though
SINCE the alternator is BOLTED to the engine via the mounting hardware, NO additional ground wires are necessary or required.
BOB RENTON
 
Don't you mean negative? :)
NO.....the battery's ground cable to the engine block IS the ground/negative connection for the alternator's ground/negative connection....since it, the alternator, is bolted to the block via it's mounting hardware. The alternator is a 3 phase full wave bridge device with the three (3) negative diode's connection are thru the alternator case to the mounting hardware to the block and the battery's negative/ground connection. The terms, ground/negative, are synonymous and are used inter changeably, with regard to the charging system. A second "ground wire" as you suggest, is superfluous and not needed.
BOB RENTON
 
all good points guys thnaks. but the black wire with the ring terminal is indeed what I want to keep connected to the new Powermaster in order to use the ammeter gauge correct? sorry, i don't have the project in front of me to look closer. Im just at work thinking about cars..
Yes, but once you connect the original black wire to the alternator stud as well as running a 4 awg wire to the + battery post your amp gauge becomes irrelevant. It’s also a good idea to put an inline fuse between the alternator and your battery in your new wire.
 
Yes, but once you connect the original black wire to the alternator stud as well as running a 4 awg wire to the + battery post your amp gauge becomes irrelevant. It’s also a good idea to put an inline fuse between the alternator and your battery in your new wire.
IMO....With an inline fuse in the circuit, IF the inline fuse fails (for whatever reason), the diodes of the alternator will be damaged due to excessive voltage applied across the diodes ....the alternator MUST be connected to a load to prevent excessive voltage from being generated.
BOB RENTON
 
I believe the big 120 amp alternators from the 70s 80s were rubber mounted.. requiring a very large ground strap.
 
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