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1964 polararear end measurment

64dodge

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I have a '64 polara, will the '65 to 70 (I see a difference in the years) rear end housings bolt directly into my car? I know YUKON makes a cut to fit axle. could I swap out axles on my rear end to get away from the castle nut 64 axle? thanks
 
I would think the 65 B axle would bolt right in. Not certain of the 66-70 but I have heard they fit as well. I hadn't heard of "cut to fit' axles before. I'll have to check that out.
 
All b bodies 62-70 use a 44 inch on center axle perches, so yes, they will bolt right in. Now the more difficult part, tire size, rim size and back spacing. Just want you to be aware of pro's/cons.
 
I have a '64 polara, will the '65 to 70 (I see a difference in the years) rear end housings bolt directly into my car? I know YUKON makes a cut to fit axle. could I swap out axles on my rear end to get away from the castle nut 64 axle? thanks

The 65-67 housing is the narrowest housing drum to drum for better tire fit. Also, "doctor differential" over on moparts has axles and brake assemblies to convert your 64 housing to non-tapered if you want to go that route.
 
The 65-67 housing is the narrowest housing drum to drum for better tire fit. Also, "doctor differential" over on moparts has axles and brake assemblies to convert your 64 housing to non-tapered if you want to go that route.

I don't believe Dr. Diff has kits to swap out tapered axles, however you might be able to pick up the axles, bearings and housing ends needed individually. Even if a kit did exist it would be a lot of work. Also, Yukon may make cut to fit axles but NOT for the 8 3/4 tapered axle housing. The difference in how and what bearings this unit uses preclude just swapping out axles, the housing ends must be cut off and replaced which isn't an easy job, unless you do it often.

To begin with the ONLY reason to swap out the tapered axle rear is ease of maintenance on the brake system. If you do the simple and inexpensive brake drum swap then there is no real reason period.... unless you're cranking out a bunch of HP and you're racing every weekend. In that case you would want to switch to a Dana anyway. Remember, those axles were designed to handle all the HP the Max Wedge cars could throw at them and they are just as reliable as any other 8 3/4 out there so .... spend your money wisely.

If you just have to swap it out then any of the late 60's "B" body units will bolt in. However, you'll have to change your wheel backspacing based on the actual measurements of the rear you wind up using. You may need more or less which will require a new set of wheels either way.
 
I don't believe Dr. Diff has kits to swap out tapered axles, however you might be able to pick up the axles, bearings and housing ends needed individually. Even if a kit did exist it would be a lot of work. Also, Yukon may make cut to fit axles but NOT for the 8 3/4 tapered axle housing. The difference in how and what bearings this unit uses preclude just swapping out axles, the housing ends must be cut off and replaced which isn't an easy job, unless you do it often.

To begin with the ONLY reason to swap out the tapered axle rear is ease of maintenance on the brake system. If you do the simple and inexpensive brake drum swap then there is no real reason period.... unless you're cranking out a bunch of HP and you're racing every weekend. In that case you would want to switch to a Dana anyway. Remember, those axles were designed to handle all the HP the Max Wedge cars could throw at them and they are just as reliable as any other 8 3/4 out there so .... spend your money wisely.

If you just have to swap it out then any of the late 60's "B" body units will bolt in. However, you'll have to change your wheel backspacing based on the actual measurements of the rear you wind up using. You may need more or less which will require a new set of wheels either way.

He did when I asked about my 64 dodge. He had axle shafts and rear brake assemblies to use with the 64 housing. The cost was 300 dollars for the axles and 300 for the brakes this was 2007. The axles had green bearings.
 
I contacted Cass(Dr. Diff) and yes he has what is needed to convert the taper axle.When doing so the brake backing plates need to be the 65-up and the studs on the axle ends need to be changed out for longer ones. I plan on those changes in the near future for my 63.
 
I believe you'll also find the housing ends need to be cut off and changed to the later 65 and up units since the tapered and later axles are retained in in the housing differently. But let me see.... $300 for the axles and $300 for the brakes compared to less than $100 to do the brake drum mod...... Its your money.
 
I believe you'll also find the housing ends need to be cut off and changed to the later 65 and up units since the tapered and later axles are retained in in the housing differently. But let me see.... $300 for the axles and $300 for the brakes compared to less than $100 to do the brake drum mod...... Its your money.

I did the brake drum mods since it was easier and cheaper also. Nothing wrong with the tapered axles except removing the drums and once the mod is done that is no longer an issue. But the axle and drum package is an option if you want to go that route and keep the original housing as is.
 
That's true, but unless you're going to do some serious racing it seems to me to be money spent that could be better spent on something else. Some are just hard over on using the later axles and if that's the case here, picking up a complete unit out of a late 60's B body would be the cheaper route. To each his own I guess.
 
I am going to do the drum mod on my rear end. I just asked about the axles because a friend of mine builds 8 3/4 rear ends for a bodies. Makes his axles with the Yukon cut for fits. Neither of us have had one of these tapered axles apart. Just getting info. Thanks everyone
 
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