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1965 Coronet Disc Brake Conversion

diamonddean

Well-Known Member
Local time
12:49 AM
Joined
Jan 7, 2015
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Location
Shelby Township, MI
IMG_1422.jpgI am planning on converting by manual drum brakes to a power disc brake system. Currently front & rear drums and I think I want to convert only the fronts based on some of the thread comments I have read. I will be using the car mostly as a driver around town, etc. not a show car or drag car. I plan to use a "right stuff" kit and understand the spindles are currently on BO 6-8 weeks. Is there any unique plumbing/valving I should be aware of or any concerns/issuse with this plan based on any experiences any of you may have had?
I appreciate your input.
 
Thank you very much!! Do you have their system on your car? Big improvement,satisfied? I will consider this as an option. After viewing their site I beleive I woud go with the stage III package. Has anyone else had experience with MCB (Muscle Car Brakes)?
 
Why not use an oem style disc brake system? Save some bucks too! most B-body set ups will work! Can't remember for sure but I believe Magnum and Cordova will work and also Volare- Aspen also! There are members who will know for sure! Just ask!
 
i used the right stuff a-body disc brake conversion on my 65 coronet. expensive mess. i tossed their calipers, master cylinder was too big and never used it, proportioning valve was worthless and then you have to take the car to realign the front end. stopping power is nothing to brag about. i wouldn't recommend their junk.
 
I appreciate the feedback weather it be good or bad. Just a question...Why would you use the A-body kit for your coronet??
 
I appreciate the feedback weather it be good or bad. Just a question...Why would you use the A-body kit for your coronet??
didn't know any better. a-body conversions are very common and are close to the largest disc that can be used with a 15" wheel.

the right stuff kit i bought cam with c-body calipers (2.75" piston) and a 1 1/8" a-body power disc master cylinder. the master cylinder wouldn't fit my brake lines but the real killer is a 1 1/8" piston is too large for manual brakes and 2.75" pistons made matters worse. the cars stopping power was worse than drum brakes. i ended up having to get some 2.47" a-body calipers and a 1.031" master cylinder. still doesn't stop as good as the 11" power drums on my 69 r/t. right stuff just throws a bunch of junk in a box without any care whether the parts are compatible or not. don't buy their junk.
 
OK Thanks. Thats why I wanted throw the question out their because I havent seen much talk on here about right stuff and there are alot of knowledgeable and experienced people on this site. I just joined last week and have been up every night reading the threads in amazement of the knowledge. I'm the type where my time is valuable and what I've resurched so far since Dennis H mentioned MCB along with info on other sites about MCB has been ALL positive espescially in publication/press write-ups. I dont mind paying a little more to save time and dont want to be piecing things together, etc...
 
When these questions come up, it seems like I am trying to sell drum brakes. I am not. The 69 Sport Sat had 10" drums. Like stepping on a rock. However the 11" Hemi Drums on the R/T are adequate now that they have been gone through with the kit. I rarely top 115 mph. I PREFER the feel of the pedal to the modern cars I drive. The R/T is driven regularly and often on the freeway with the goofy speed changes from 75 to 10 mph for who the hell knows why. The brakes in a box kit has been on for 10 or more years and the supplier has changed - no recent business with them. I enjoy modulating those brakes when flying off a ramp, they feel good. In a panic they have stopped straight with good feedback to impending skid. Try to keep the panics to a minimum. iPadApril2014 1125.jpg Maintain adequate following distance.
 
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