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1966 Belvedere I 225 3speed trans clutch issues

spiderbikes

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I have a 1966 Plymouth Belvedere (I). Has the good ol' slant 6 225 with 3 on the tree trans.
Paid 200$ from the original owner and pulled it home with a chain.
Got it running really great, 80K original miles.

It was parked 10 years because the clutch pressure plate wore out, too weak to make the clutch work.

Got my pressure plate rebuilt, new clutch disc and turned the flywheel.

Pressure plate still too weak.

I pulled the trans again to replace the clutch, this time I want to change my 9 1/4 inch clutch disc to a 10 inch race clutch disc.

Does anyone know how I can locate the right flywheel to change all this over?

Any suggestions?

This is not a show car, it is a 4-door and worth only what I have into it.

It is a daily driver and I want to change the clutch out for one that takes 2 legs to press to the floor, if you know what I mean. I am sick of driving REALLY slow because the clutch only turns and turns and turns...etc..

ANY HELP APPRECIATED!
Maybe looking for a police model clutch?
 
There were plenty of 6 cyl A and B bodies running around successfully with the factory clutch so I'm thinking there is something wrong with the installation or the components. Does the clutch slip? If so take a look at the linkage adjustment. Did you install the disc correctly? Sorry to ask this question but I have seen it done. Could the pressure plate rebuild be the problem? Perhaps get another one from a different source or send yours out to McLeod to have checked/reworked.
 
Can you change the flywheel / disc size without changing the bellhousing to match? For certain the big block 10-1/2 and 11" setups use different bellhousings.
 
I have adjusted the clutch tight, loose, every which way and no luck. The springs in the pressure plate were super week. There is nothing but clutch slip when I drive it.

I found on the internet a 10" clutch that is supposed to mount up to an A-body car with a 273 slant six.... Does any one know if it would mount on my B-body 225?

That clutch is listed at http://brewersperformance.com/products.asp?cat=251

My flywheel has 122 gear teeth. So it should work......?
 
I am quite sure I put it all together correctly. I know with my stock 225 I don't need to go as hefty as I am trying to, but 2 years of driving with a week pressure plate makes me want to get the strongest clutch I can find.

I may just use a stock 10 inch if it will mount, or a 9 1/4 inch racing clutch.
 
I have adjusted the clutch tight, loose, every which way and no luck. The springs in the pressure plate were super week. There is nothing but clutch slip when I drive it.

I found on the internet a 10" clutch that is supposed to mount up to an A-body car with a 273 slant six.... Does any one know if it would mount on my B-body 225?

That clutch is listed at http://brewersperformance.com/products.asp?cat=251

My flywheel has 122 gear teeth. So it should work......?

273 isn't a slant six, it's a small v-8

It wouldn't be a bad idea to just call brewer's, tell them what's going on, and see what they say.

I bet you have to change the bellhousing if you change the flywheel size. The bigger diameter on the ring means the starter has to be in a different place.
 
273 isn't a slant six, it's a small v-8

It wouldn't be a bad idea to just call brewer's, tell them what's going on, and see what they say.

I bet you have to change the bellhousing if you change the flywheel size. The bigger diameter on the ring means the starter has to be in a different place.



I realize that now. I know the 273 is a V8, not sure why I called it a Slant 6.

I have been emailing Brewers and they tell me that it will bolt right on to my flywheel. Guess I will call them to Double, triple check. I hate ordering wrong parts on the net, hard to return them.

I am not afraid of spending some cash on a good clutch. My car is not pretty, yes I use it a work car occasionally. Sometimes I haul a Honda CT90 (trail 90) on the bumper. If it was a 2 door and nicer I would think more in the restoration mode.

I just want a fine clutch to haul weight up a steep hill if I needed to.
 
Here are some pictures of my driver. 1966 Plymouth Belvedere 1.

Hauling my bike 1300 miles. 80 miles an hour the whole way.
 

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Yeah I know what you mean about having to return stuff. Bugs me to death to pay twice for shipping because I chose the wrong part.

Being in Utah you definitely don't want the clutch to go out scaling those mountains that are hiding in the background of that 2nd photo.
 
Does anyone know where to get a performance or racing clutch for the 225 slant 6?

9.25 inch clutch disc.
 
There are lots of clutch options for your car. You can upgrade to the 10" clutch if you want; the only "gotchya" is that you need the special bolts; regular bolt heads won't clear. However, as has been said, zillions of slant-6 cars work just fine with the 9" clutch. Buying quality parts is important (and increasingly difficult these days).

Also be advised of a TSB on clutch issues (pedal doesn't return all the way, so clutch slips) for the '66 slant-6 B-bodies; see here and here
 
Thanks for that info. I am sure that is not the problem that I have. No matter the position the clutch can spin, pedal returns all the way just fine. In any position tight or loose on the adjuster bolt, the clutch spins, the fork not even engaging the throw out bearing.

I ended up buying a Sachs 10 inch clutch at my local auto part store. It mounts right on my flywheel perfectly. Will I still need special bolts?

Will I need to change my bell housing?

I guess I will have those answers when I put it together.

I am waiting on the clutch fork boot and front trans seal...
 
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You don't need to change the bellhousing. You do need the special bolts.
 
I ended up buying a Sachs 10 inch clutch at my local auto part store. It mounts right on my flywheel perfectly. Will I still need special bolts?

Will I need to change my bell housing?

No, you used the same flywheel.

Get that thing installed and go hill climbing :thumbsup:
 
I really appreciate it guys, thank a million for your help.

I am still waiting on the front trans seal and clutch fork boot... in the mail.

I will put new u-joints in the driveline Monday.

Installed a new gas / fuel tank while I am waiting..... Can you believe that I was driving for over 2 years with about 5 inches of rust in a 5 gallon bucket??? I knew I was rusty, but not that bad. (I have installed a fuel filter that the size of a large oil filter, twist on).

When it is finally done I will test drive it, put it back on the jack stands and Re-arch the rear leaf springs.

Waiting for parts is a horrible waste of time!

ALSO, do you know where to get these "special" bolts?
 
Are these special enough??

They are listed on ebay, item # 320899334192
 

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What is the reason that I need special bolts, is it because my stock bolts might hit the clutch pressure plate, with the bolt heads?
 
See attached pictures of my bolt and my 10 inch pressure plate.

Maybe I don't understand, I thought the special bolts were because the bolt head would not hit the pressure plate.
- Is it because the bolt itself might cause problems with the clutch disc?

What is the exact reason for requiring special bolts?
 

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I got the clutch mounted with my special bolts, looks like the clutch disc would have hit the original bolts. This car is driving AWESOME!! Sad thing is I just found a 3 speed with 4th as an over drive..... Now I am putting in a different trans. Will get my new transmission in about a month.
 
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