1967 Coronet ignition switch smoking?

[moparmike1967]

I have a 1967 Dodge Coronet and when I tried to start the car it turned over twice and the smoke started coming from the ignition switch. I disconnected the battery and started to chase all of the wires to see if some thing was shorting out and all of the wires are in good condition. I thought that it might be the switch so I put in a new switch and the same thing happened, the switch started smoking again. Any one have a clue what could be causing this?

 

[tpodwdog]

check the wires on the starter relay. make sure nothing is touching eachother or ground.

then check the wires from the relay to the starter. ....make sure all is clear and not touching anything else.

also check the fuse box. the problem could be anyplace.

 

[67 coronet]

sounds like something is dead shorted.if you have an oms meter start checking wires for contact to ground.(you can buy one pretty cheep).make sure to check starter and alt as well,anything could be shorted.i would unplug harness at switch and start there.

 

[440roadrunner]

The best way to check out this sort of problem is to allow current to flow SAFELY so that you don't burn up wiring. What you need is a current limiter IN SERIES with battery ground

One good way to do this is to use a headlight, or an old stop/ tail lamp

You can wire both wires of a stop/ tail lamp socket together. So hook the shell of the lamp socket to body ground, and the two socket pigtail wires together, and hook them to the disconnected battery NEG post.

Now the lamp will light if a load is turned on. Remove the dome, trunk lamps and fuses one at a time if necessary to get the lamp to go out with the key OFF

Now, think to yourself "do you know for sure?" when the switched smoked?

Did it smoke in "run?" Are you sure?

Only in "start?" Are you sure?

If you think it was only in "crank" first try disconnecting the yellow wire at the start relay. Twist the key to start and see what the lamp does. If it's dim or out, you have found the area of the problem. IF not the problem is back from the yellow, through the bulkhead connector, towards the switch itself.

If it turns out that the "run" circuit is the culprit, start disconnection components one at a time. Disconnect the alternator field, unplug the regulator. Unhook the ballast connectors and unplug the ignition. etc