1968 Super Bee Control Arms

[bobfake]

Hi all,

I'm thinking about replacing the control arms on my '68 Super Bee...Do the upper control arms get changed only or both the upper and lower? It seems like there are a ton of upper control arms out there but not lower control arms?

Thanks!
Bob

 

[Cheapsunglasses]

The lower control arm is typically strengthened with a stiffening plate, and that’s usually good enough for most for driving.

Upgrading to a tubular control arm will give you more caster, which will help the car drive a lot better.

PST, Firm feel inc, and Qa1 are good companies to look at

 

[WileE]

On these suspensions, the "load" is on the LCA. The UCA is only a follower. Thus, usually the LCA bushings get worn. Recommend replace the bushing and add the ^^ stiffener on the LCA. If UCA's are desired, recommend the non-heim joint tubular type which will give you better positive caster. I concur with post #2 ^^ on all counts.

 

[bobfake]

The lower control arm is typically strengthened with a stiffening plate, and that’s usually good enough for most for driving.

Upgrading to a tubular control arm will give you more caster, which will help the car drive a lot better.

PST, Firm feel inc, and Qa1 are good companies to look at

View attachment 1673977

View attachment 1673978

View attachment 1673979

View attachment 1673980

Thanks...how does the stiffening plate install? Looks like a weld-on piece?

 

[Cheapsunglasses]

Yes, they need to be welded

 

[Kern Dog]

I was able to get 5 degrees of positive caster with STOCK upper control arms with Moog K-7103 offset bushings. 5 degrees is excellent. These cars were built at a time of the inferior Bias Ply tires. The stock alignment specs:

Pathetic! Manual steering with negative caster settings? Power with a meager 3/4 degree???
No.
If you want the car to steer and handle more like a modern car, you need decent radial tires and a better alignment.
This chart isn't bad:

But you will like more caster.
I just switched to QA 1 tubular arms that look like this:

Here are a couple of caster readings I got so far. LEFT side:

RIGHT side...it is NOT maxxed out, I was able to get it to 8 1/2 degrees too, this is dialed back a little.

You can still get great numbers with the stock UCAs but these QA 1 arms were advertised to give 3 additional degrees of caster and they DO.

 

[Cheapsunglasses]

RIGHT side...it is NOT maxxed out, I was able to get it to 8 1/2 degrees too, this is dialed back a little.

8 1/2? That’s fantastic!

 

[bobfake]

I was able to get 5 degrees of positive caster with STOCK upper control arms with Moog K-7103 offset bushings. 5 degrees is excellent. These cars were built at a time of the inferior Bias Ply tires. The stock alignment specs:


View attachment 1674241

Pathetic! Manual steering with negative caster settings? Power with a meager 3/4 degree???
No.
If you want the car to steer and handle more like a modern car, you need decent radial tires and a better alignment.
This chart isn't bad:

View attachment 1674242

But you will like more caster.
I just switched to QA 1 tubular arms that look like this:

View attachment 1674243

View attachment 1674244

View attachment 1674245

Here are a couple of caster readings I got so far. LEFT side:

View attachment 1674246

RIGHT side...it is NOT maxxed out, I was able to get it to 8 1/2 degrees too, this is dialed back a little.

View attachment 1674247

You can still get great numbers with the stock UCAs but these QA 1 arms were advertised to give 3 additional degrees of caster and they DO.

That’s great!! Are they an easy install? Like two bolts and the ball joint? I’ve never done them before.

 

[Kern Dog]

The aftermarket QA 1 upper control arms are an easy swap.
I must repeat though...They add 3 degrees of caster over stock control arms. A stock arm with offset bushings is a LOT cheaper. The QA 1 arms may be overkill for a car that is just a cruiser.
Hey...I have no kids and I love to tinker so sometimes I spend money on stuff that isn't necessary. Not everyone is as irresponsible!

 

[CoronetDarter]

I have PST tubular UCAs on the Coronet and Moog offset bushings on the Dart. Both work, but I liked the PST's because they came with new ball joints. Not a hard R&R. From inside the engine bay, take a pic of the alignment dowels before starting, so you can replicate their orientation with the new UCAs.
And find an alignment shop that does classic cars, especially Mopars. Aligning torsion bar suspensions is a lost art.

 

[bobfake]

One more question…anything specific I need to be aware of on a torsion bar suspension when changing upper control arms?

 

[bobfake]

Thanks for all the info!! I'm going with the QA1 upper control arms (part number 52305). For the lowers, QA1 makes a set (part number 52308) but I am confirming they will work with my 1968 Super Bee with factory sway bar.

If for some reason they do not work, does anyone else make lower control arms? Or just do the lower control arm rebuold kit with stiffener?

Thanks!!
Bob