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1970 Coronet Drum to Disc, Rotor not seating far enough down to install cotter pin

Jimclo2002

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Have issue with my 1970 coronet rotors not seating down far enough to screw on the Bid nut on spindle and add cotter pin through spindle hole (both sides are like this)

Seems that I'm half the thickness of the big nut that screws on the spindle away from being able to install a cotter pin.

I have installed new race(s) inter and outer and new bearings inter and outer, new dust shields. I'm using the 1970 Coronet OEM Rotors and spindles.


Am I missing something?
 
Make sure that you're using the proper bearings. Check inside and outside diameter, and check on spindle before installing. Do the same with the inner seal. If they're not correct, the rotor will not seat. Also, NEVER force them on. You can't trust part numbers to be correct, especially on a swap. Good luck.
 
I would try a chrysler dealership, they used those nuts for many years. Dorman products has a kit, part number 05190 that has all the bits . It would probably be made in china however.
 
24775023-2884-415A-9626-33E48DF16C42.jpeg
BDF1BC18-2862-487E-98B4-920B32086D7C.jpeg

This is the my rotor. The rotor spins in this state
This is the height before the cage and spindle nut go on.
I can install the cage and nut but nut will wont come enough to install a cotter pin
 
Last edited:
When you slide the rotor onto the spindle, does the seal seat in the proper location? You should feel it seat by hand. If so, then you have the wrong nut. If not, check the dimensions like I stated earlier.
 
When you slide the rotor onto the spindle, does the seal seat in the proper location? You should feel it seat by hand. If so, then you have the wrong nut. If not, check the dimensions like I stated earlier.
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Does anyone have a photo of a correct spindle nut
 
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Does anyone have a photo of a correct spindle nut
If you mean the nut from the original drum assy, yes.
I switched my 70 Coronet over to a wilwood setup & still have the old drums.

If I can find them I'll drop a pic
 
The distance between the keyed washer and the inside of the cotter pin hole needs to be a hair over 3/8 of an inch, if you have the factory nut assembly. Some times, even with the correct seal you have to push gently while rotating the rotor to get it to slide up. If in doubt remove the seal and try it. If not that, then make sure that the outer bearing races are seated properly up against the shoulder in the rotor. If that doesn't work and the bearings are the correct ones then the rotors are machined incorrectly for your application.
 
The distance between the keyed washer and the inside of the cotter pin hole needs to be a hair over 3/8 of an inch, if you have the factory nut assembly. Some times, even with the correct seal you have to push gently while rotating the rotor to get it to slide up. If in doubt remove the seal and try it. If not that, then make sure that the outer bearing races are seated properly up against the shoulder in the rotor. If that doesn't work and the bearings are the correct ones then the rotors are machined incorrectly for your application.
I mentioned a few times above to check the bearing inner and outer dimensions and ensure that the seal fully seats but the OP seems to be ignoring me. Let him change the nut and learn the hard way. You just can't help some people.
 
I mentioned a few times above to check the bearing inner and outer dimensions and ensure that the seal fully seats but the OP seems to be ignoring me. Let him change the nut and learn the hard way. You just can't help some people.
I will check the bear race seat today
 
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