1970 Roadrunner horn issues. Pictures attached

[Ethan]

I have a 1970 roadrunner I bought a couple years ago and the previous owner told me the horn did not work. After further investigation I found the relay fried and also the ground wire attached to the copper plate under the steering wheel. I hooked a battery charger to horn and it sounded very sick even with the adjustment screw. Replaced horn along with a new relay. When I jump the terminals in the picture with the two clear female connectors the horn sounds. Not sure how the horn works or what I'm missing under the steering wheel? Where should I have 12v and what needs to be grounded. Iv attacked this issue several times and failed. I'm here asking for advice. Thank you

 

[JimCoronette]

Do you have this piece?

https://www.classicindustries.com/p...MIq9jU-5eA6gIV64taBR01EwGmEAQYASABEgLIJfD_BwE

 

[Ethan]

Sorry I did not post that picture, yes. Although I'm not sure what else is supposed to be in there. No real good posts using the search engine and it not working when I got it I'm not sure.

 

[pearljam724]

Take this advice from experience. There are sellers on Ebay that sell Mopar switches. Some sellers are advertising switches for particular models and they are simply not for advertised models. I bought a very similiar switch that you have that was advertised to be suitable for a 69 Coronet. I messed with the turn signals for months until I finally gave up and bought another switch. The next one worked like a charm and was a different switch all together. There are sellers selling these yellow cam switches for multiple Mopar models. They simply don’t work for some advertised models. The wiring on these switches are not the same as original. In reference to where the wiring is hooked up on the new switch.
Also, I don’t know if your model RR uses a different switch compared to most Mopar switches. But, yours doesn’t have the horn contact rod with the roller on the end. Could be your problem. This rod activates the horn. It’s spring loaded and when you push on the steering wheel. It grounds the rod, making horn sound.
Some aftermarket steering wheels, are problematic in reference to the horn.
Easily avoid this problem and buy an original reproduction steering wheel.

 

[BLK 68 R/T]

Looks like the rod is there for the horn contact. I think the aftermarket turn signal switches don’t have the roller on them anymore? Or at least certain ones don’t. There should be a wire on your steering wheel that connects to your horn switch that gets put on under the horn pad.

 

[steve340]

Whats that black ring mounted to the steering wheel - should not be there.
The silver ring you show in your second pic mounts direct to the steering wheel with little screws through the black horn switch.
The column mounted switch is earth for the horn relay actuation coil.

 

[BLK 68 R/T]

Whats that black ring mounted to the steering wheel - should not be there.
The silver ring you show in your second pic mounts direct to the steering wheel with little screws through the black horn switch.
The column mounted switch is earth for the horn relay actuation coil.

The black ring should be there. It’s a 70 only thing to fill the gap between the column and wheel.

 

[steve340]

OK. I have never noticed that before. Another thing to store away.

 

[steve340]

With the battery connected and the steering wheel removed as in your first pics you should be able to operate the horns(if wired correctly) by earthing the horn ring contact to the steering column shaft with a short jump wire. This will pull in the relay and the horns will sound.
Note. The column switch is only the earth for the relay coil actuation circuit and is not designed for the high current the horns will draw.
If this works correctly the car is right and you know the problem is in the actual steering wheel.