1973 Dodge Charger Front Disk/Rear Drum Combination Valve

[Kartracer11]

Question regrinding the combination valve or distribution valve.

I am currently replacing all of the brake lines and components for my 1973 Dodge Charger with front disk and rear drum brakes. I ordered a 1970-1974 B/E body remanufactured distribution valve (https://www.classicindustries.com/product/md2270.html?source=6C8B6ED9A9B27C3EFD0A83E0D6B14FABBD9C83) and the front to rear brake line had no appropriately sized fitting. This is the only part that the lines did not mate directly into place easily. I have been all over the internet and the only thing I can figure is this block is made for all drum setups. After looking farther, I found a diagram that indicated that a combination valve like this (https://www.classicindustries.com/product/md2268.html?source=6C8B6ED9A9B27C3EFD0A83E0D6B14FABBD9C83) would work for my application, but I cannot find anything stating that it would work for my application.

Can someone let me know what I am missing?

 

[T2R9]

73 uses a Kelsey Hayes cast iron valve and there are no re-pops available. Why not rebuild your original? Muscle car research has the kit.

Home | Muscle Car Research LLC

www.musclecarresearch.com

 

[T2R9]

Oh and welcome!

 

[Kartracer11]

I do not see why I could not just rebuild it. Is it just the resealing kit for the Kelsey-Hayes valve they have on their list of brake components?

And thank you! This is my first rebuild and I have tons of questions, so I was recommended here.

 

[T2R9]

Yup. I used the KH-Kit-2 to rebuild the one in my 74. Get the number off yours to be sure. They are happy to answer any questions too. Read the rebuild articles, real helpful.

 

[Kartracer11]

Perfect.

Thank you for the quick answer and saving me another $100 dollars on a block that I would end up not using.

 

[terrywalker]

I ran into the same problem on my 74 Charger. I had to replace the ferrule nut on the new lines to the correct size to use in the proportioning valve block. I also had to re-bend/massage the new lines to work to hook up to the proportioning block. The lines from the master cylinder to the new block, I had to order a bender, double flaring tool and the correct ferrule nuts and make my own. Another option is to get a local shop to put the correct ends on the new lines. Also, I did buy some brake line adapter bushings.
Terry W.