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1973 roadrunner steering question

lamont 71duster

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im currently working on my 73 roadrunner and i switched from a 340 small block to a big block 440 in the car now im having issues with the steering hitting the headers...ive looked at a couple big block (factory) roadrunners and it looks like there rag joint is down towards the steering box where mines is up towards the column.can anyone help me maybe even send me some pics or point me in the right direction.thanks
 
Post a pic.

73 is a one year only design.

Not sure if it's different BB to SB.
 
How did you deal with the SB inner fender on the pass side?

What headers did you use?

I have a 74 column in my collection that has a much more common flex joint (used until 1990's and same as ford), and it is located higher on the column.
 
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as far as the passenger inner fender i had to trim it out like the big block cars...and the steering hits the back header tube and thats without the rubber rag joint
 
"The puck"?

A 74 column might work for you.

The puck is replaced with a 1/4" thick, but sightly larger in diameter disk that you can find at Advance Auto, and it's located about 2/3 up the column from where the puck sits.
 
...or you could weld in a 1/2" drive wobbly socket extension for about $25, which is almost exactly what the $300 flaming river joint kit is.
 
I'm really trying to avoid buying one of those flaming river but if I can't figure something out that looks nice and clean I might have to
 
The 74 style "biscuit" was used in 5th Avenues and trucks all the way into the early 90's.

The M body stuff may directly swap, but IDK on the inner column.

A 74 column would be a direct bolt in.

You could probably get enough parts and length of column to weld up from a truck.
 
Werent the 73 and 74 the same design? Except a small few areas like the trunk and front seat belts to name a few?
 
Column is different, as stated above.
 
My car uses the thick steering biscuit....I wasn't aware they made different steering columns except if it was power steering or manual steering.i knew they were different lengths
 
I need to go to the shop tonight (if it's not raining), and I'll try to get a pic of the 74.

it will interchange as a whole but the joints are entirely different.
 
BTW, I was looking around trying to find an online pic and found a thread where folks are saying a repro 73 only puck style joint is $120 !!!!

The 74 style is $12 at Advance!
 
Ok if you can get me a pic of it that would be greatly appreciated
 
...but a 73 tank can work in a 74 if you really want it to.
 
My 74 column has factory cruise control.

Eventually it will find it's way into the car along with the rest of the cruise parts.

This will also get me the cheap and easy to find rag joint.

I recently replaced my trashed puck joint with an actual hockey puck.

The actual puck does not have the impregnated metal that the original does, but the rubber is very hard and seems to be a compound similar to eagle GT tires!
It shreds when drilled instead of melting. That's good for a application near exhaust manifolds/headers.

Also easing my mind was the fact that the 74 and up joint disks do not have any impregnated metal, although they do have some type of fibers.

If it splits, there will be a little slop (just like my split original, but the through bolts will eventually hit each other and turn the wheels, giving up maybe 2 clock hours of slop.
 
Lots of new Ohio members.

I grew up in Dayton.

My wife in Akron.

I had to move to Florida to find a nice Ohio girl!
 
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